02 March 2009

i love LA!



as the song goes!

i fly down state, leaving a dreary san francisco behind me, and a great evening at the contemporary jewish museum as well. sounds of sheryl crow whisper in my ear as i de-plane at LAX, bopping down the concourse to a waiting naomi! reminiscent of an earlier time, when she also 'attempts' to greet us at los angeles international - we are on our way back to new york from a month in thailand - and our dear friend has a basket of breakfast waiting for us (so characteristically sweet). however, our flight is late, our connection tight that time; the airline sends us through back passages so we can make our flight home, and we miss naomi completely! none of us have cell phones (this is, after all, the pre-google era of dinosaurs roaming the earth), so we are ships, or planes, that pass in the night.

and we're off, to culver city for lunch in this very cool district. jason joins us - he's great! we have enormous salads, beer, and talk about recycling, the environment, hillary and barack - so refreshing to be with smart and conscious friends!

we continue ... palm trees, sunshine, hysterical laughter ... and pick up the girls. at once, we are serious, huddled in meaningful conversation; then suddenly, it turns, and we are goons! naomi insists that we must walk to 'toppings' for a pre-dinner snack of low-fat frozen yogurt; the girls (adorable!) carefree on scooters, me on my rickety two legs (almost 100 years old between the two of them!). oh, the agony! had i known that i would be walking ten miles (or so it seems) in either direction for my delectable treat i'd have hailed a cab (do they do that in the city of angels?). memories of frequent visits to l.a. - with the kids when they were younger, before every school break descended into a tour of donkeys and exotic cultures - dance in my head.

we finally reach our destination, have our muli-topped yogurt (so good) and head back to beverlywood. it's magnificent to stroll outside in february, even on the heels of our south african dalliance. sunshine, cars. LA is in fact, a city of cars - and quite suitably designed for the beast. gas stations (BP) are ultra cool; drive through windows beckon, and everything is made to be visualized at 45 mph. parking is easy, the scale is 'low', and lots of light hits the pavement. it seems strange to romanticize this aspect of the city; however, it really 'works' and makes it quite livable - much more so than the tangle of streets that characterize the northeast's suburban sprawl. not to mention that the drives, at least off the freeway, are civilized.

we hang at home, then it's off to the avalon for cocktails and snacks, poolside. a smart hotel with a lovely courtyard pool, candelight, great seating; when we arrive, we are seated next to the bamboo grove under the stars immediately. WHAT? how is this possible? thursday night in LA, at a swanky and cool locale. how can we three possibly snag a fantastic table like this? i haven't quite figured that one out yet - if this was new york, you wouldn't even be able to walk INTO a place like this, any night. let alone get a table, a cocktail promptly, and some delicious finger food (turkey sliders on brioche! gourmet 'fish and chips'!).

we retire, and talk way past our bedtime - i still am on shaky ground as far as the time zones go.

morning brings greek yogurt from the stone age - thanks naomi - which i insist will only bolster my immune system. naomi's gorgeous girls are off, and so are we ... me in jason's 'spinning' shoes. naomi has elected to take me to THE spinning class in LA - tevia's (sic?) class. i've been told that if i'm tired (or on the verge of angioplasty no. 2) at any point during the 45 minute (!) torture, i can 'sit down' on the bike. what? aren't i going to be sitting down whilst riding? no, no, no - you 'stand' on, or over, the pedals, moving your tiny legs (aged as noted, already exhausted from the frozen yogurt escapade) rapidly to the music and tevia's optimistic, microphone enhanced thoughts.

i sweat a bucket but manage to: 1. live through the experience; 2. survive LA's lethal body conscious scene without anyone snickering; 3. have a great time with naomi! we reward ourselves handsomely at urth café off melrose - yummy cheese plate fit for a king, or a deflated new yorker who's exhausted! an enormous latté follows, along with 54 cent confitures and a fresh squeezed oj. we are so blessed to be outside, in workout clothes, having petit dejeuner in the sunlight!

yet, what's for lunch? we propose abbot kinney, the fun part of venice, and head there only after a brief shower. i am flying home at night, and we are determined to get to as many eateries as possible! we immediately scope out a new restaurant - perfect and cool and delicious - and propose a lengthy stroll before dining (as we've just eaten minutes earlier!). however, our stomachs and eyes get the best of us; we make it up half a block, immediately turn around, and proceed to gorge ourselves in the fantastic GJELINA. this place is stunning and uber hip. we are at a communal table, inquiring as to the pedigree of each dish. what would you suggest, and the waiter responds. we accept some of his offerings, reject others. he nods approvingly, and we share a spectacular soup, it's base at least a liter of olive oil. it's worth noting that we reject the large plate of french fries - too much oil for our lithe bodies - and ironically the soup is appropriately and deliciously swimming in said viscous liquid. how sad for us! we stop the proprietor, who is attending to one of the actors from the movie 'he's just not that into you' and inquire if a smaller platter of fries is available. nope, just the one (huge) size. we decide, oddly, NOT to go for it (there is gelato, after all). nonetheless, he returns momentarily, wielding a small plate with samples of the beloved crispy potatoes - how nice!

full and happy, we ponder gelato on this design street, or picking up the girls and going to beverly hills with them for ice cream there. we opt for the latter - although they insist that another walk to toppings would suit them fine - not me, i'm out of breath thinking about the ice cream. it's off to BH - we park conveniently, and i admonish naomi once again - parking in LA is easy, and there never seems to be any traffic! she protests, insisting that the wednesday evening before thanksgiving the freeway was totally backed up. that's all she could come up with! the LIE in new york is backed up on tuesday evenings at midnight in the middle of winter! we could teach those westerners a thing or two about intensity!

rodeo drive is deserted - 5 pm on a friday, nary a foreign tourist or movie star in sight. where have all the dollars gone? not here.

jason and the girls join us, and after an episode of the partridge family, our lovely time together draws to a close. we venture out to typhoon for dinner at the santa monica airport - and have a great meal. naomi and jason are lovely, generous, funny; and we say our sad farewells! of course, they get me to the airport with plenty of time to catch the red-eye home - NOT! perpetually resistant to arriving on time for flights, they transfer their laissez-faire-ness to me; i am forced to remove my giant metal belt buckle in the car, running furiously through security - more x-rated x-rays, and settle in for the short hop home.

back to reality, after being a makeshift road warrior the past few weeks - and loving it!

hello, bart!




last week, upon returning from cape town, i have the distinct pleasure of hopping on another plane - this time clear across the u.s. - to california for two nights ... further rendering my sense of time and place null and void. i am off to the golden state for an exhibit (including my work) at the new contemporary jewish museum of san francisco, recently revived architecturally by none other than starchitect daniel liebeskind.

i promptly arrive in the city by the bay, not quite certain which time zone i'm in ... gmt+2? pst? est? no matter, a swift and somewhat tortured ride into town on BART, the bay area's response to mass transit, and i'm at my hotel. a quick walk - this part of downtown is both chic and seedy - union square, market street, and a hop on the treadmill - then i'm off. a glass or two of napa wine in the club lounge - actually, my hotel is extraordinarily convenient, my room with sweeping views.

the museum really is stunning. centrally located just a block from SF MoMA, right in the heart of the city, it's prime real estate. the 1900's building has just received it's face lift, and two glass rhombuses rise obtusely from the more staid original building. diamonds of windows beckon ...

inside, it's packed! a beautiful 6pm gala is in full swing ... the space is dynamic and full of energy. good food (grilled vegetables, smoked salmon, et al), great wines from sonoma ... mmm, so good, so fitting. there are a ton of people attending this evening, everyone decked out in quite formal cocktail attire ... kind of nice and swanky. onto the exhibit, where there are eighty 'seder' plates on display - actually, the 'theme' IS the passover seder plate, but so many of the pieces are conceptual (mine included), making it hard to label many of them as 'functional' objects for the rituals of this jewish holiday.

i talk with the curators, meet many of the artists, say hello to patrons, and get an up-close-and-personal look at the museum's architecture and other exhibits. like the show that i am in, the works are artfully displayed - great spaces, great lighting - really a joy to experience!

by the time the evening is over, i'm zonked - it's late by new york time, even later in cape town, where my biological clock is still ticking. so off i go, slumped into my bed, ready for the next day ... an early morning workout, a light breakfast, and back to the airport for my midday flight to los angeles to see my dear friends.

however, even before i, the early riser, has a chance to bolt up in the morning, my mobile rings - my flight has been cancelled. i am either on a connecting flight at 1 pm via fresno (what?!!!), or an earlier non-stop into LA. i (obviously) opt for the latter, and rush the exercise in order to make it back to the airport, change my ticket, disrobe unceremoniously for security (rather perverted, the whole experience) and rush to my plane. which of course, is delayed. to the original time that i was scheduled to fly.

the joys of travel!

22 February 2009

and we're off, sadly!




oh, why, oh why - sweet cape town, parting is such sour sorrow!

the kids benefit from our vigorous friendship with michelle and david - who insist on a delectable farewell petit dejeuner. yes, they get to sleep in, lounge about, and have breakfast in their robes poolside while the grown ups go out for an early breakfast. over lattés, farmhouse fresh food, political discussions, and learning about afrikaans, we bask in each other's now-familiar company. it's hard to believe that just a few months ago, we were strangers seated next to each other at café gitane. and here we are, intimately wrapped up in each other's lives, thoughts, beliefs - and loving it! there's debbie, and colin, and all manner of cape town's tony set! ahhh, the joys of human safari ...

yet, parting is such sweet sorrow ... and we must all be on our way. we profess undying love for each other, they drop us back at the lovely 2 inn 1, where we quickly pack up the carry-ons ... how we'll miss klaus, chris, and the gang! and just when a new french couple has arrived from paris ... we barely have a chance to break out our conjugated verbs!!!

so it's off to long street for us - a few souvenirs (like ikea, whatever can be flat packed). this area is funky, cool, and seedy - cape town's own east village - but it's a perfect place for t-shirts, small handbags, board shorts. we stock up, then quickly zip down to the v&a waterfront, much vilified by our anti-establishment family (too neatly packaged for us!) ... andi gets his soccer souvenirs and rugby ball, and it's back to manna epicure for the most savory late lunch and sweet desserts. we ingest and imbibe all that is brought forth, much to the horror of our waitress. yet, she finds it all humorous. i insist that if i'm ever to have an eatery, this would be it - clean, white, fresh, with the most incredible food and staff. you just feel amazing being in this place - heaven!

it's time for the airport, we kiss and hug anyone that will have us - chris and klaus promise a visit to new york, and we relish our last moments at this boutique, exquisite hotel. goodbye table mountain; au revoir lion's head; adios camps bay ... we loved you, now we must leave you!

back to where it all begins ... the impeccable cape town airport. we glide through security, and alas, jane finds her much beloved orange feather 'hat' - the very same that has adorned our bedroom for the last eight nights. i am sent along, and she makes her purchase, which brings her much joy and happiness ...

we are greeted warmly and serendipitously by michael and leesa and their girls - so nice, and what a surprise to see them on our flight - although we've never met personally, we've heard all good things about them from ruth and andrew - fun!

nineteen hours later, we are home, having lived through a nine hour flight to dakar, senegal, and an eight hour flight back to jfk. there is an email from klaus and chris, telling us they miss our energy - we feel the same way! ... quickly to nolita for breakfast at café gitane (stopping to chat with all the regulars, all of whom have already been to cape town!) before heading home. the first thing we do upon entering the house? we hang jane's feathers proudly over the fireplace - a tangible and perfect end to the memories of this, the most incredible swedler holiday yet.

but not the last ...

20 February 2009

hey mr. sandman



friday in cape town. good times, but we have serious business to get down to!

but first, our word from our sponsor:

a FULL day of beach fun ... we all get up early, and after enjoying (another!) delicious breakfast, we're off for a drive - over kloof neck, with the spectacular coast opening up to us on all sides ... over to bantry bay, passing the monte carlo-esque clifton beaches ... winding our way, hugging the shore - heavenly! we pass salt, wakame, newport deli; we soak in the incredibly modern and ultra cool architecture (they build with real brick here, not wood toothpicks like in the u.s.!). finally, we are at delicious camps bay again, a golden crescent of sand ringed with palm trees, table mountain, lion's head, and the twelve apostles. we sunscreen furiously, making sure to cover every inch of exposed skin (this is summer in africa, after all!). we have all the necessary accoutrements - beach chairs, matkot paddles, ipods - and down to some serious beach time!

i take a run along the coast, almost making it to the hotel bearing the dozen apostles names ... and head back, feeling, literally, alive. it is heaven on earth here - spectacular, easy, fantastic, sparkly. we think, every minute, what we were doing last week at this time; what we'll be doing next week at this time; and we pinch ourselves to be so lucky, so blessed to be here together enjoying all of this.

the day passes lazily and easily - pizza on the beach for the kids, sand games, reading, walking ... michelle and dave text us ... david has just returned from his business trip to botswana, and they must simply have a drink with us! done - we agree to meet at 'blues', overlooking the beach, around 4 or so. just as we are crossing the street to meet them, they pass us by, hooting to our delight! we share afternoon cocktails on the terrace of this sexy lounge, looking out to our own kids who are still availing themselves of afternoon delight on the beach. drinks, great conversation, good food all ensue - and we agree on the absolute necessity of meeting for breakfast the following morning, our 'send off'.

back at 2 inn 1 kensington, klaus, chris, and team continue to spoil us ... late afternoon cocktails (again!), we quickly get ready for dinner at aubergine. more springbok, lamb, ostrich, and fish arrive; cheese plates and soufflés come and go, as do bottles of wine and sparkling water. we laugh, i fall asleep at the table - horrible! my plans for all night dancing with the kids at 'la med', on the beach, are dashed by my old age!

darn, and just when cape town was starting to make me feel SO young!

19 February 2009

grey skies are gonna clear up







andi gets busy at camps bay:


things we love about cape town:
1. craggy rock formations, defying all common sense as they shoot up at every point in the city
2. beaches (also defying all common sense) which ring brief interludes in said landscape
3. easy and unpretentious people - cool and humble, not hyper-hip (very bad indeed!) ... including the fun friends we've made!
4. vintage VW beetles everywhere, with graphic license plates that start with CA (cape town)
5. fresh food
6. it's diminutive size - this place is tiny! which means this place is easy!
7. parking and parking attendants (in their bright vests) - beyond ridiculous - it's possible (and probable) to park directly in front of ANY place that one wishes to go - all the time!
9. our home away from home, 2 inn 1 kensington, run by klaus and chris ... ultra modern, warm, cool, friendly, easy
10. the price tag - value, value, value for the best quality, quality, quality!

today, i look outside - is it possible? is that ... wait, no it can't be ... oh, dear. yes, it has drizzled, and a light rain has made my terrace ever-so-slick. i panic, then take deep cleansing breaths. i'll let jane sleep a bit, and i'll rustle up some tall lattés in elegant and thin glasses. when sleeping beauty emerges, we enjoy our breakfast in bed, and promise to let the kids sleep. we watch part of the movie 'waitress', which we happened to have seen on our computer exactly one year ago, as jane goes through a round of chemo ... what a difference a year makes (happily!).

i decide to go out for a run ... the weather has suddenly cleared and it's a comfortable day with light clouds. not a vigorous runner to begin with - just some cardio, really - i find myself covering all of the mother city in an hour! there's where we ate two nights ago; that's the shop we popped into the second day; that's where jared wants to go for burgers tonight. literally, all of downtown and the city bowl suburbs!

when i get back, we decide that our 'gift' to the kids - letting them sleep until 11 - must finally come to an end. yet, when we bust into their room, there are the three of them, curled up like kittens, watching a DVD together - they've been up for hours, and didn't want us ruining their party. it is truly adorable. a breakfast of obscene amounts of breads, jams, cheeses, more lattés, yogurts, and other delectables ensues. we've decided to take a night off - klaus cancels our 'fancy' dinner reservation, and we all insist on an easy evening of going to the movies and out for burgers.

kirstenbosch gardens await - a slice of botanical heaven this side of devil's peak - literally, a manicured haven with sweeping views and points of repose. quite spectacular; the kids walk the trail to skeleton gorge, we sit on a bench and admire the vistas, and we all laugh at marlee's incessant insanity as she babbles on crazily - hysterical. after hours in this magnificent setting the weather has totally cleared - not a cloud in sight, bluer-than-blue sky prevails, and we are on our way.

it's back to uber cool kloof street - and a parking spot in front of manna epicure, where we order EVERYTHING on the menu - it's 4 in the afternoon, a late lunch needs to carry us until after the movie. the waitress tries to contain her horror, to no avail, and we enjoy every tasty morsel sitting on the terrace in the summer sun.

is there time for the beach? of course! andi has some sand work he wants to get to ... jared and marlee decide to hang back at the pool, enjoying beverages, ipods, and books pool side, while jane and i and andi get in a few hours at the stunning camps bay. we relax on the sand, go for a long walk, build sand letters, play paddle ball, and are amazed at the scenery. and the parking ... $1.30 in the lot directly across the corniche.

we scurry back to the hotel, time for another 'sundowner' and some snacks, and head out to the oddly named labia theater on orange street (not more than two minutes from where we're staying) ... it's a vestige of older times, with it's cool neon sign beckoning. we see the adorable 'happy go lucky' with sally hawkins, none of us really understanding the fast paced british dialogue, which only adds to the charm! we head out to royale eatery for the best burgers ever (lamb! ostrich!); cape town closes early so there's no gelato or espresso, but of course, it's midnight and time to turn in. friday is the last 'full' day here, and we have a good program on ...

more to follow!

18 February 2009

lands-CAPE




at our new friends! thanks debbie, michelle, and michelle - incredible!

o glorious day!

cape town continues to amaze. barely bigger than ottawa, it's so incredibly easy to navigate - even jane is driving with the steering wheel on the left, on the 'wrong side'. it has yet to take us more than five minutes to get anywhere, and traffic is non-existent. which means that world class dining, beaches, and shops are within easy range, and we can pack a ton into a day!

our day begins in de waterkaant district ... edna is right, it's fantastic! colorful and fun, full of life. we start at africa nova, with it's mod crafts interpretation of all things sub-saharan. really cool. we move onto café maxim - adorable and cupcake filled (has magnolia bakery really stretched it's long tentacles to south africa?). then, we are amazed by the french speaking team from martinique at lil'dreys de ci de la ... great kitsch kitchen bags (from amsterdam) and the most incredible chicken wire sculpture 'bust' of nelson mandela - design at it's best. we (i) are smitten with a crepe layered concoction with roasted squash and roquefort at le petit tart, our charming proprietor singing the praises of all those from new york (yeah!)...

we move onto just-off-kloof street. we are welcomed by michelle, our dear friend, at her-dear-friends lovely establishment, the hall collection. debbie has set up the most incredible cottage with imported italian linens, arranged with her incredibly keen eye for design. a modern, chic undertone permeates throughout; the goods are first rate, as is the arrangement of literally everything. towards the garden courtyard, we find a dressed table replete with the most gorgeous setting - an 'open wednesday' lunch awaits. cape town has their own ina garten; the barefoot contessa never had it this good. debbie regales us with stories and extravagances, buoyed by michelle's exuberance and enthusiasm. we sit down to a fine bottle of bubbly, a variety of salads, and towers of glass domes barely containing the most yummy confections, created by none other than debbie herself! we enjoy and incredible lunch in this divine setting, vowing to become lifelong friends and to forever recognize that the origin of humanity emanates from the transvaal, not far from our spot of repose and sophistication (wouldn't lucy be proud of our evolutionary triumphs!???). miranda has beaded us the most stunning bookmarks and we are thrilled to take them back with us as a further reminder of our time together!

finally, the sun emerges, just on time. the day has been rather mild, and we await our moment at the beach. here it is - a late afternoon drive to clifton 4, down a few steps, to sandy shores. we are all plugged into our i-phones and i-pods; the matkot paddles come out for rounds of paddleball, and jane does a brisk walk to camps bay for the summer-in-africa sunscreen. we laze about - i walk all the clifton beaches for my exercise, to work off my strictly vegetarian diet since i've been here.

at six we vow to go back 'home', instead driving to lundadno beach, and finally, hout bay. it's lovely out - at once appearing as if katrina will roll in, then other-worldly cloud formations break to reveal fantastic cliffs and rock formations.

finally home, wine flows, guests chat, and we prep for dinner at savoy cabbage. a lovely space welcomes us, but jared is not feeling great. so the evening is touch-and-go, he makes it through the spotty service, although the food is quite yummy. we laugh and laugh, feelings as if we've been her forever - so much fun, this very sophisticated, clean, and easy cape town.

what to do about going to our (real) home? we'll deal with that later in the week - for now, it's bedtime and another day of sun and fun awaits ...

h

17 February 2009

a-freak-a




marlee is STILL cartwheeling as evidenced below:

(add it to the collection = click here!)

the LEAST relaxing vacation EVER! despite gorgeous weather (38 degrees celsius, or 100 degrees fahrenheit), majestic scenery, incredible beaches, great food - i'm exhausted! too much fun! too much of a good thing!

firstly, cape town: spotless, organized, stunning. great graphics. nice people. hip but humble. thin (damn them!). easy to get around, despite driving with the steering wheel on the left. our small hotel, a living homage to beauty and modern style - wine flowing, solar heated pool, the incredible hospitality of klaus and chris at 2 inn 1 kensington. all is good. and the guests ... every night we congregate at 11:30 to regale ourselves with stories of table mountain absailing, paragliding, wineries, and secret beach coves. we were just admonished for our merry-making; every evening someone else emerges from their room, ready to break open gold-leaf dusted chocolate truffles, or champagne from one of the famous wine making regions. glass clinking, mad laughing - oh!

today, bright and sunny. jane and i insist on taking a walk down kloof street, right around the corner from our very smart hotel - a 'run' actually. well, the 'run' turns into a brisk stroll, and quickly descends into window shopping, checking out the menu at manna epicure, picking up treats at melissa's, and in a final act of desperation, sipping lattés curbside under an umbrella at vida e caffé. we're pathetic. when in insist we 'run' back to the hotel uphill, jane completely gives up, insisting she'd rather be out of shape and happy than in shape and sweaty.

it's already broiling by this time, and we rouse the kids at 10:30 - their personalized eggs, toast, juices, and lattés are waiting poolside. i tell them it's 7 am and that we're going to synagogue - they sing a chorus of protests, and finally realize that i'm joking and that the day is half gone. we decide to basically do nothing at all today; then suddenly find ourselves in the car, driving east to stellenbosch and franschoek (wine region towns, not unlike easthampton and southampton). it's the most spectacular scenery - tokara is glorious in all it's modernity (good wine tasting too!). stellenbosch is adorable - cupcake, the newest store, carries jane's kitsch kitchen handbags (from amsterdam); they have delicious little salads and quiches, and all manner of knick knacks ... great design! we pop into 'dot' next door for more amazing collectibles. again, we are super impressed with the beauty of western cape, the incredible hospitality of all, the quality of food/drink/design/graphics, and the lack of expense for this amazing experience. nothing is a hassle - not parking, not reservations, not weather, not accommodations - everything is first rate.

our only gripe? it does not seem to be 'african' - certainly not compared to rwanda. but that's okay - we feel happy, relaxed, well fed, and safe.

onto franschoek, the 'french' town in the winelands - picture perfect, with mountains growing in the background (think palm springs) and adorable eateries. we stop at ici, and find ourselves yet again imbibing wine and eating organic. oh, how much more can we stand!!!!!

blaring 'the five' radio and 'good hope fm' - inspiring on the radio...

we stop at the taal monument in paarl, and have the whole (poured concrete) place to ourselves - an incredible utopian paean to south african languages - brilliant and sort of fascist in it's incarnation - a great stop. we swiftly glide back into cape town - oh, there is our beloved table mountain and lion's head. home sweet home - time for another glass of wine and a quick call to the nassims and company in israel. poolside playing cards, snacking, staring into space. chatting with the other guests, with the incredible klaus; should we really go out for another gastronomic dinner tonight?

and suddenly, again, it's dark, and we're all dressed up, ready for an evening at ginja. at the last moment, i pull the bottle of bubbly out from the minibar - the one given to us upon our arrival from our new friends michelle and david - and we bring it to the restaurant for 'corkage' (they open it and pour it for you). jane, marlee, and i all sample it ... delicious! the food, well, incredible! inventive - appetizers on spoons, all manner of ostrich and springbok and fish. cheese platters, pear tarts, and chocolate landscapes. at the end of the meal, the waiter comes back - how did we ever manage to get a bottle of that champagne? whatever do you mean, we ask. it's rare, he tells us - almost impossible to come by, with a great pedigree (it's ambeloui, the hout bay bubbly available in tiny quantities only to those in the know). oh, dear friends, you've done it again!

finally home at all hours, we hook up with our compatriots poolside, for one last round, talks about garrison keeler, life, children.

another, yes another incredible down in western cape!

16 February 2009

es-CAPE




for a true clip of the insanity i am living with, please take a look at marlee:



omg
.

i need a vacation from my vacation. when i planned a jaunt to south africa, i had visions of lolling about by the pool. palm fronds gently rustling in the breeze. long, leisurely breakfasts, and sundowners in the evening. a long bath. running on kloof street, or by the water's edge in sea point (i-phone secured to slowly growing bicep, blaring 70's music).

instead ... a frenzy of activity. weather consistently gorgeous and cloudless - 90 degrees with nary a bug in sight, no humidity. oh perfection, darn thou! so there is no rest for the weary. a brilliant breakfast organized poolside - me, with my greek yogurt and blossom honey, endless lattés; them, with eggs every which way, infinite amounts of toasted ciabatta, and a delectable and strange milk chocolate spread from bavaria. cheese like it's going out of style.

the kids have pilfered everything on our plates. i am not sure if i've gained or lost 10 pounds since arrival. it's pure hedonism. i do know i've had eleven kashi bars and forty eight glasses of wine. i cannot keep a piece of medium rare springbok on my plate. tonight (going backwards) we dine at jardine - incredible. only five items on the menu. andi (again) has a crispy south african fish. wine is flowing. jared and marlee both ingest springbok; my braised veal does not stand a chance (thank g-d andi is now a vegetarian). they eat my organic roll. i think i have a life saver in the car i can get too. they profess to not wanting dessert; when the cheese plate arrives, all manner of goat and cow are gone, as is quince paste and walnut sourdough wedges.

what DID we do this morning, between all this eating?!! oh yes, robben island, the prison where nelson mandela was held (amongst others). despite visiting as a tour group - the only way permissible - it is fascinating. an ex-prisoner guides us and gives us an intimate view of life during apartheid. amazing and fascinating. the power of human spirit and justice is inspiring, and we all feel both appalled and humbled by humanity.

we return, rather queasy from the boat road. today table mountain beckons - it is clear and stunning, and the cable car makes the 1100 meter ascent only under perfect conditions. we zip up to the lower end of this iconic rock formation, and find ourselves at the top of the rock quickly. the views are breathtaking, all the way to the cape of good hope. the beaches beckon from below. camps bay, glen beach, clifton1-4. there's devil's peak. the boys are terrified of falling off, but quickly turn to mountain goats. marlee is to be found at every ledge, not unlike wile e. coyote chasing the road runner. it is hot (90) but not really; it is the sun ... it is SEARING. broiling actually. we tuck into greek salad and health bars before descending, rushing like mad people back to our sanctuary to change for the beach and pick up our matkot paddles.

a black mercedes is in front of us, and there's henry waving frantically out of the back window - our friends = lifelong - who we had dinner with last night - just in front of us! so funny. we say hi, and promise to return in ten minutes to collect henry - he'll surf at the beach with us! we frantically change - we need to be back by seven for cocktails before heading out for dinner.

the beach is glorious - a combination of herzliya, rio de janeiro, and cannes. i go for a run. jane flops down. kids play paddle ball. henry is surfing.

this place is gorgeous! easy! laid back!

now, most places with incredibly in shape, good looking people and a spectacular coastline, great design scene, and natural beauty tend to be pretentious and self-conscious. not cape town. it's cool with a capital K, but not stuffy, or anti-pretentious (ie. low slung diesel jeans with converse sneakers). no, this place is all grown up and mature, and opens up it's arms to you, giving all it has to offer.

the 'mother city' of south africa. i get it.

h

15 February 2009

i'm engaged!

no, not that way.

you see, totally plugged in actually. in africa.

today, i feel connected. to africa (albeit, quite a different africa than i'm used to). rather, this new and familiar slash unfamiliar africa. the day starts with sparkling, crisp sunshine and heat. i take a run, blaring 'new york city girl' and 'ring my bell' on my iphone, securely strapped to my armband. i stride confidently down kloof street, the epicenter of cape town cool. did i mention that this city is TINY? it is, and loving it! manna epicure. melissa's. the hills and home cascading down table mountain? i return in a deep sweat to a magnificent café latté, courtesy of the team at 2 inn 1.

with minimal screaming, i rouse the kids and jane. sunny side up eggs abound, toasted ciabatta, more lattés, and we are finally off for the penguin colony at boulders' beach. andi, our budding vegetarian, is delighted with the sight on animals roaming freely, and we frolick with our normally-in-the-antarctic friends in the indian ocean. spectacular, although we all emerge sunburned. jane does not comprehend, despite our slathering of no. 30 ... as i insist, we ARE in africa in [their] summer, my dear.

we head further south - the incredible cape of good hope awaits. fierce winds blow as we head up to cape point, and make our way to the south western most tip of africa - wild and beautiful! we head north, stopping at olympia café (thanks debbie!) for treats. we scurry back to higgovale, our home away from home, and luxuriate in rain showers and don our lovely duds. we are expected at michelle and david's (and their six children's home) at 5:30 for cocktails and dinner.

it's sublime! incredible hosts, bearing gifts for all (a beautiful framed photo of us together at café gitane, chocolates for the kids) and are greeted by our new cape town friends and their fabulous six children. we drink, tour, discuss marc jacobs and trips to devi garh; we talk about wild fires on lions' head, and ladurée macarons. david mans the range, cooking all manner of gourmet food - michelle and i set the enormous dinner table, chatting about serendipity.

the kids are summoned for dinner - gnocchi, haricots verts, risotto, and incredible red wine. we laugh, discuss politics, breast cancer, and paris; the kids play play station and chat (facebook?). the evening draws to a close, sadly - we profess to be lifelong friends and meet imminently in india.

upon our return 'home', jane insists that we watch a dvd together - french, of course. i get sidetracked, drawn into political diatribe in the sitting area with guests from the uk. as if the seven glasses of wine have not been enough, i join them in an eighth - when one refers to a bottle of champagne in his room, we are goaded into another round, toasting obama and socialized medicine.

jane, fast asleep. pity. gelsie calls from new york - she's having twins! good news. i'm engaged in all manner of good things - vacation is so lovely, so warm, so challenging, so much fun.

tomorrow - robben island, where nelson mandela was in prison for years. amazing.

14 February 2009

good neighbors make neighborgoods




two things i have learned today in south africa:
1. in cape town, the general public starts serious consumption of alcohol at 10 in the morning (will explain) and do not complete said activity until late in the evening (punctuated by a more obsessive imbibing at 'sundowner' time)
2. sociologically speaking, cape town still seems divided - not on the surface, with all forms of humans co-mingling; no, this is slightly more insidious division which seems to take place in hip restaurants where an active social scene is taking place (also, will explain)

today - lovely! heavenly! after a great night of sleep, save for the 3 hours i stare blankly at the ceiling, trying not to wake jane (unsuccessful, forcing her to finally sport an eye-patch whilst i hesitantly watch cnn), we rise to a head-on view of lion's head (mountain) rising ceremoniously over the hills of cape town. breakfast is a lavish affair in the long dining room with the table that seems to continue on into the pool. the kids - omelettes, breads, jams, cheeses. jane and i on lighter grub, including yogurt, honey, smoked salmon, and many a latté (what else is new). it's spectacular but windy - the cable car up to towering table mountain is closed - and we make our way to the ever-hip neighbourgoods market in woodstock.

cape town is spotless! even an area described to us as 'slightly seedy' looks upmarket compared to new york! clean, neat, and tidy. we park at the old biscuit mill, and mill about with all manner of hipsters in low slung jeans and brad pitt hats. ciabatta breads abound, cute baby t's, dog designer duds ... all the usual suspects. we arrive to a large hall, brilliantly lit, and chock full of food vendors with pestos, french pastries, cheeses, tartlets - the most incredible picnic fare! while jane schemes to get sandwiches for a beach lunch, the kids and i turn the corner and - voila - there's a party going on! music, bottles of wine, young families, groups of friends - everyone is drinking, eating pizza with arugula and homemade buffalo mozzarella. would we like a glass of wine? why yes, funny you should ask. it IS 11 o'clock, isn't it?

two coupes of bubbly ... in real champagne glasses! 30 rand together, with a 20 rand deposit for the glasses (returned if we bring them back). we do, and together the twins of sparkling are $3 total. it is incredible value, this land of mandela! everything is value priced - beyond fair - making the holiday even more enjoyable. the movies are$2.50, dinner for 5 with four courses each, drinks, and a bottle of wine with a spectacular view is under $100. we're talking serious eating, amazing service, top location.

well fed between our opulent breakfast and our cool snacks, we head to the beach - incredible camps bay, as we snake between mountains and find ourselves staring down, way down to sugar beached lined with palms and swathed in aqua blue water. fantastic! we park across from the most gorgeous, promenade-lined beach - for $2 (sorry, can't resist) and spend the afternoon lolling about in the sand, playing paddle ball, staring at the mountains behind us and the sea in front. collecting seashells. snacking. heaven.

when we finally pull ourselves away, it's almost 5 o'clock - time for a quick smoothie and ride back to the hotel. more wine flows, our complimentary 'sundowners' and we quickly get ready for an early dinner at the ever-hip wafu on the water. everyone is in a 'valentines' mood - very amorous - and we stake a prime view of the ocean and ingest ridiculous amounts of sushi, dumplings, and edamame. even dessert, which we all profess to feel to full to enjoy. we've missed 'happy go lucky' at the classic theater, everyone is now (finally!) tired, so it's home sweet home to enjoy a dvd together. we're zonked, happy, and well taken care of!

tomorrow, penguins at boulders beach, or the cape of good hope. and more spectacular and welcoming south africa!