30 March 2010

lebanese blonde











how sweet it is!

expecting a cooler day today, we decide to take a day trip - it's full on sun, and when we get out of the hotel, we realize how warm it actually is ... no matter, we zip up the coast ... past haifa's industrial port to the border with lebanon. peering through a metal gate, marlee reaches across the bars to declare that her hand has been in lebanon (part of a game that we still play when crossing the border from canada into the usa ... our 'feet' are in america, our shoulders still up north, etc.). we descend the craggy cliff via cable car to the grottos of rosh hanikrah - i haven't been here in 30 years, and jane was last here as a schoolgirl where she practically slipped into a bubbling pool and met an early demise.

the kids think it's cool, and watch in darkness as the waves flow into and out of the 'caves'. suddenly a tsunami-like explosion pushes forth after a gentle ebb, and they are completely drenched by the wave, screaming and laughing - it is SO hysterical to see them so excited by this ... non-jaded for a moment, impressed with the force.

we revitalize with ice cream and drive back south to the fortified and very arab town of akko. we were here a few years ago ... the seafront promenade which heads towards the outer walls seems improved and elegant. the town is lively today, and we are spoiled by a young man selling all manner of organic, artisinal 'kashi' bars! nuts of all sorts, pressed with honey and essences into flat cakes, which he expertly and generously slices through with a palette. halvah, sesame, almond, pistachio - all beautifully prepared and displayed in front of the citadel, in a shaded side alley. it is heaven, and we suddenly find ourselves laden down with these delicacies, ignoring our first rule - no plastic. the pink bags sadly hang from our wrists, and we glumly make our way towards the citadel's unearthed passages and chambers ... amazing and striking in their construction and simplicity. the day has flown by - how can it be 4pm?

we pass back through haifa, waving to the baha'i gardens (memories of another visit!) and get completely lost. i take the minivan into a mini-space and really find myself in a jam - prompting me to back out s-l-o-w-l-y with encouragement and awe emanating from the kids.

we make our way back down the coast to herzliyah - ahh, herzliyah, our former hangout. california like with its bluffs and expanses of beach and ocean - ilana and louis and the girls are waiting, having just arrived from munich two days ago. we reunite on the beach - glorious and happy - staking a spot at our favorite beach bar. ari, our uruguayan server, is excited to see us back, and he's a sight for sore eyes! all are happy - and hummus, falafel, grilled fish, and wine are brought forth to enjoy as the sun begins to set. we exchange stories, laugh, and catch up - and decide to have dinner together at our much beloved zozobra - no noodles of course! i take a run up the shore towards ra'anana, which is heavenly, while everyone showers and changes.

dinner is fun and casual - marlee's been dreaming of this - and we follow it up with gelato (70% dark chocolate? impossibly great!). the night air is cool as we sit around and reminisce, finally deciding that tomorrow is another day. it's back to tel aviv, hopping again after the holiday ...

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