we are inundated with all things scaly. if it swims, it's been on our plates - and more specifically, andi's plate. when he relented in cape town last year, and finally decided that fish was okay for a vegetarian to explore, we didn't know it would become a staple of his diet. and how sweet it is.
tel aviv is hopping ... is there anyplace that has a younger feel? a quick glance reveals a south beach look alike - palm lined trees, low slung buildings, high rise hotels, a promenade. it all looks pretty, tropical, vibrant. and yet it also seems to be crumbling here and there, wires exposed, alleys that look neglected. a wondrous mess and a shiny jewel. this is one big 'nolita' - clothing shops abound, coffee bars, everyone young and fit and gorgeous. and very self-consciously cool and hip.
the weather is heavenly, and despite jane's love of spring in israel, the kids and i still prefer late summer's intense and searing heat (uncomfortable but distinctly 'middle eastern').
good luck finding anything that resembles kosher food or passover approved items ... bread is ubiquitous, as is shrimp, lobster, pork. amazing to be in this metropolis and see everyone eating foccaccia instead of matzah. somehow, things will change tomorrow when we go to jerusalem.
a steady stream of friends and family have kept us busy. we manage a pre-arranged visit to the palmach museum, quite inspiring historically. lunch at martha's and back to the beach, where marlee is with friends, ilana and louis come looking for the munich contingent, and we loll on the fine sand while the kids play 'matkot' and eat ice cream. we visit the lewitans' friends at their newly renovated two level penthouse apartment - incredible, with stunning views and rooftop pool - and venture out to sheinkin for a fine and relaxed dinner which ends past midnight.
exhausted, we rise today and sneak off to jaffa with andi - he has insisted that he get his 'tallit' (prayer shawl) for his bar mitzvah at gabrieli, the same shop that jared bought his years ago. we stroll through this part of south tel aviv which is quaint and charming, and andi picks the perfect version, a gift from my father to him to mark this time in his life.
we rush back to our seaside hotel for a quick workout, and jared's friend aden arrives from jerusalem. more fish at a late lunch at manta ray, and the kids leave us for an afternoon at the beach. we have coffee at vivi's parents lovely home - too much cake, coffee, grand marnier fruits, all so fresh. we admire elias' paintings, their terrace garden, and the 'grown ups' enjoy a little time off ...
back 'home' just in time to take over the lobby of the hotel, and in burst a small portion of jane's extended family, who gather to regale us with stories in arabic and hebrew. they are vibrant and funny and loud and engaged and we take more capuccino, cookies, cakes. they take their leave hours later and we rush to make a 9:30 pm dinner at herbert samuel, a foodies dream. waves of courses arrive at our swanky table, and coming in starving means we over order. but it's all so good, so tasty, so finely presented ... we languish for hours enjoying the wine, the salads, and more fish! exhausted, we return home, ready for a day in the old city ...
tel aviv is hopping ... is there anyplace that has a younger feel? a quick glance reveals a south beach look alike - palm lined trees, low slung buildings, high rise hotels, a promenade. it all looks pretty, tropical, vibrant. and yet it also seems to be crumbling here and there, wires exposed, alleys that look neglected. a wondrous mess and a shiny jewel. this is one big 'nolita' - clothing shops abound, coffee bars, everyone young and fit and gorgeous. and very self-consciously cool and hip.
the weather is heavenly, and despite jane's love of spring in israel, the kids and i still prefer late summer's intense and searing heat (uncomfortable but distinctly 'middle eastern').
good luck finding anything that resembles kosher food or passover approved items ... bread is ubiquitous, as is shrimp, lobster, pork. amazing to be in this metropolis and see everyone eating foccaccia instead of matzah. somehow, things will change tomorrow when we go to jerusalem.
a steady stream of friends and family have kept us busy. we manage a pre-arranged visit to the palmach museum, quite inspiring historically. lunch at martha's and back to the beach, where marlee is with friends, ilana and louis come looking for the munich contingent, and we loll on the fine sand while the kids play 'matkot' and eat ice cream. we visit the lewitans' friends at their newly renovated two level penthouse apartment - incredible, with stunning views and rooftop pool - and venture out to sheinkin for a fine and relaxed dinner which ends past midnight.
exhausted, we rise today and sneak off to jaffa with andi - he has insisted that he get his 'tallit' (prayer shawl) for his bar mitzvah at gabrieli, the same shop that jared bought his years ago. we stroll through this part of south tel aviv which is quaint and charming, and andi picks the perfect version, a gift from my father to him to mark this time in his life.
we rush back to our seaside hotel for a quick workout, and jared's friend aden arrives from jerusalem. more fish at a late lunch at manta ray, and the kids leave us for an afternoon at the beach. we have coffee at vivi's parents lovely home - too much cake, coffee, grand marnier fruits, all so fresh. we admire elias' paintings, their terrace garden, and the 'grown ups' enjoy a little time off ...
back 'home' just in time to take over the lobby of the hotel, and in burst a small portion of jane's extended family, who gather to regale us with stories in arabic and hebrew. they are vibrant and funny and loud and engaged and we take more capuccino, cookies, cakes. they take their leave hours later and we rush to make a 9:30 pm dinner at herbert samuel, a foodies dream. waves of courses arrive at our swanky table, and coming in starving means we over order. but it's all so good, so tasty, so finely presented ... we languish for hours enjoying the wine, the salads, and more fish! exhausted, we return home, ready for a day in the old city ...
