pack it in, baby!

in the ever increasingly complex world of global air travel, we have found at least one solution to the plethora of problems that confound adventurers.

packing.

or, lack thereof.

long before the era of 3 ounce containers was ushered we, our family humbly submitted to venturing forth with carry-ons only. it was a perfect storm of sorts. firstly, we were going to india for spring break; two adults and three children on eight flights in ten days. how to schlepp all that was needed?

luckily, on one of my many jaunts to target, i passed the small-ish luggage zone. five colorful carry-on pieces, in astonishingly vivid colors, presented themselves to me. the perfect size, and the more-than-perfect price of 9.99 USD each.

"how will we fit everything in", child a decried. "there's no room for my stuff", joined in child b. child c sat there mortified, joined by wife who was at once astonished by my brazen audacity to even suggest the scheme and was concurrently equally fascinated by the idea.

could five jews from suburban new york really pull it off? yes, we could, we did, and we have been doing so ever since that fateful trip. we are a curious crew, swiftly moving into position when we embark - overhead bins open, we scale seats to jam these tiny packages into the dark recesses. we get the dirty looks, even though we barely take up any space and certainly don't encroach on anyone else's square footage (jealousy rears it's ugly head). yep, we've got the system beat.

we are often found passing through cdg, where all of the security workers know us as we stroll through with our bags - we're hard to miss. fuchsia, lime green, tangerine, scarlet, and deep blue - that's us. we even picked up sardonic luggage tags to match both the color and the message.

we don't do laundry. we don't iron. we don't shop. we only bring one pair of shoes. here's the rest of the recipe for a ten day voyage:

1 pair black pants (twill) or long black peasant skirt, for evening
3 dark polyester hipster tops, for evening
1 pair black shoes: mens (rubber souled shiny target loafer or high top all black leather sneakers) & womens (target wedge boots or steve madden platforms) - for day and night
1 jet-black zippered hoodie, tight fitting (like a pullover sweater)
2 pair of jeans
10 pair underwear, 10 socks
10 daytime t-shirts
1 black belt
2 bathing suits (weather permitting)
1 pair rubber flip-flops
1 mini umbrella
cosmetics: 1 small rollon anti-perspirant, 1 tube moisturizer, minimal makeup, nail file, clipper, 1 tube mini-toothpaste, 1 toothbrush, 1 comb, hair elastics, 1 tiny tube sunscreen if needed (no cologne, perfume, nail polish, blush, etc.! - and no cheating!)

yes, it fits. we've done this numerous times - the girls wear their hair curly, we clean the shoes at night before dinner (get the dust off with a handcloth and water), and i can promise you we've gone from day to night with nary a problem. we've dined at guy savoy in paris, all outfitted in black, looking quite chic just off the plane from mumbai. you're all in it together.

and the best part - no waiting for your bags, no time wasted unpacking, no problems fitting your luggage in a rental car or taxi, no mess in the room, and no decisions (read: arguments) about what to wear.

voila!

try it, you'll like it!

h

devi garh

there is a perfect place on the indian subcontinent. a mere 45 minutes (blessedly) outside of udaipur stands devi garh, proudly rising betwixt the aravali hills.

towering over the adjacent farmland and the village of delwara, a jain temple town if there ever was one, this palace, yes, palace, is gloriously bathed in the deep light which makes this corner of rajasthan famous. firstly, it is important to know that walking, strolling, or browsing in indian cities does not afford serendipity; rather, it provides one with an up close and personal look at the nostrils of a giant cow, mega car fumes, and an ear splitting cacophony of horns and other assorted noises. forget sidewalks. relinquish your fantasies of teahouses and cafés. and abandon those notions of carting bolts of indian silks home to cover your walls, pillow, or other bourgeois articles that may grace your own palace.

all the more reason to head for the hills! ahhh, devi garh. a spectacular edifice, a remnant of the mogul empire, now waiting for you and only you. with twenty nine suites, it seems absurd that ALL of this could be for you. but it IS! and from the impeccable grounds, to the stunning views marrying the complex to the landscape, village, and farmland beyond, it is a rhapsody of incredible indian design. ingenuity is unveiled at every turn ... the lovely pool, the cool dining room, the sunset terrace, the contemporary inner courtyards all subtly beckon even the most jaded of travelers.

we were fortunate to share our journey with friends from london and paris - the experience did so touch us all ... even though we were introduced at this retreat, we founded transatlantic friendships which have endured. we were giddy with the thought of our good fortune, and none of us wanted to leave - ever.

the food - well, scrumptious (on our last evening, i was ceremoniously presented with the recipe for my favorite dessert, neatly typed on letterhead for me to experiment with at home upon my sad return to normal life!). the rooms - beyond stunning. the views, well we've covered that. how about the kids? our three terrors clamored between the piscine, the game room, and flying kites on the rooftops with the gracious staff in their flowing outfits. paired with our outings to the local temples, we had a great dose of all that this magical land can and should be.

devi garh, highly recommended to all!

h

hello, senator!

when i was growing up, i thought that my hometown of ottawa was exceedingly boring. looking like something out of the arctic tundra in winter, it's frozen landscape held little appeal for me. i dreamed of the partridge family bus rolling by, seeing me singing 'i think i love you' in the living room window, and stopping to invite me to join their touring troupe!

i've since grown up, a bit, and have come to see (in my infinite wisdom!) the not-so-hidden charms of the canadian capital. coming from the grittiness and hyper-activity of nyc, there is something almost dutch about riding a bike alongside the canal - as a way of actually getting around! and although we are neither athletic or sports oriented, we can appreciate all the saabs rolling by with thule racks secured tightly to the roof (or a canoe, or a pair of skis, etc.).

there are, incidentally, more urbane pursuits to be found in ottawa these days. the safdie-designed national gallery of canada (we attended the opening all those years ago!) mimics the nearby earthbound parliament buildings, but studies them in lacy glass and soaring pillars of refined concrete. nicolas hoare bookstore, just across the street, is as pleasant a shop as you are likely to find anyhwere on the planet - a great, thoughtful selection of books in a nicely lit space. zone lies a bit further south on sussex drive, beckoning shoppers with it's wide variety of design objects and home furnishings (all previously reasonable priced, prior to the decline of the american empire!). further afield, we find the french baker (le boulanger francais), our favorite spot for early lunch (actually, in the back annex at what is affectionately called benny's bistro) ... a glass of wine, a crisp and artfully arranged salad, some poached fish - all yummy and tasty. and it is customary, for our family at least, to top off any and all meals with a delicious gelato from pure on elgin street ... absolutely first rate, particularly smalt (smarties, the canadian 'm&m' mixed with chocolate), or after eight (an icy confection tasting like it's namesake chocolate square). in the evenings, we can be found at the retro bytowne cinema on rideau street - a riotous affair of an old theater, replete with mezzanine hovering in the huge space ... great movies supplemented by an even great calendar.

rows of embassy homes and other stately structures dot this most picturesque and un-self conscious of cities (in the true canadian spirit of not attracting attention to oneself, the author of this blog notwithstanding). ottawa is a glorious weekend escape which pleases most in the summer, starting with the renowned tulip festival - when millions of tulip bulbs spring to life with an array of colors and styles. the plants are donated annually by holland for canada's service to the netherlands' monarchy during the second world war, when they ensconced themselves in this land.

and despite being the second coldest capital city, after ulan bator (mongolia) - at least according to trivial pursuit - it warms me to be there!

h

sunday times

i am sitting in bed, having my latté, reading the paper with jane. saturday morning - i've usually been baking, exercising, surfing by this late hour - 8:14 - but today i'm taking a bit of a break.

so what's in the 'sunday' paper, delivered hot off the press on saturday morning? well, the travel section for certain - and there it is, at the very end, a buried nugget for me ... 36 hours in marrakech!
how lovely. how delightful. a small jewel of a gift to make me smile and recall our own exotic and opulent family journey to this fabled city in february. truth be told, having traveled to india a year earlier 'en famille', morocco came easy. it is a milder, much milder version of india. yes, of course, completely different cultures, language, food, history, organized religion; yet there is something about the stark geography of rajasthan that is parallel, in it's bold simplicity, to the snow-capped atlas mountains which ring this hip paradise. the colors too - both marrakesh and the indian desert state share this swirling, textured, and vibrant trait.

36 hours in marrakech. we were fortunate to have more than that. and, as noted in the new york times article, jad mahal. a fun bastion for jet-setting europeans who frequent this ville - loud music, lounge like seating, low lighting, updated takes on moroccan favorites - all come together for a memorable evening. and at 10:30, a special, if somewhat mysteriously rare treat ... belly dancers. the music pumps, and out from the shadows emerge a multitude of women, with large platters secured to their head, almost like giant heavy bonnets. the women, all dressed in white, are the 'mature' dancers - probably in their mid to late '40s - and they sway gently, but in unison, to the wave of music which rhythmically sweeps the place. they are covered in silken dresses, and atop their headpieces are a plethora of burning candles of various heights and sized. i suppose one of their main tasks, in addition to getting the crowd going, is to ensure that they don't give you an unwanted waxing!

when these gentle doyennes of dance complete their choreographed moves, the 'younger' and intentionally 'sexy' dancers come out, setting the place ablaze. their is, at jad mahal, an inner courtyard - a common place feature in many moroccan edifices - and in this particular instance the courtyard is encased in floor to ceiling glass. combined with the soaring space and dark ambience, it is difficult to tell what is real and what is reflected ... am i seeing 'into' that space, or am i looking at a reflection on the glass enclosing the space? i assume that beyond interesting design, there's a metaphor for something in that ...

the fresh dancers really go wild, taunting male and female clients with their wily ways, hips swaying, crowd jeering in their d&g outfits - quite an intoxicating sight! the kids were in awe, really just wanting to head back to the riad to watch 'the italian job' on their flatscreen by the fire - but they hung in there and in the end really enjoyed it, as did we.

thanks for the memories!

h

caesarean section

Israel, O Israel ... How did we love thee, let us count the ways -

1.Western sunsets over the balmy Mediterranean
2.Slim fit jeans and bods to match!
3.Tahini, tahini, tahini - green, red, mixed with hummus - any way possible!
4.Heat - dry desert and humid coastal
5.Tel Aviv buzz, nonstop action
6.Shekels - bills, not coins
7.Roman ruins at Caesarea
8.Hebrew and Arabic signage, a graphic-philes dream!
9.Seeing the sea and the desert in the same hour
10.Matkot - Israeli paddle ball on the beach
11.Accadia Beach, Ari, chetzi Tuborgs, and languishing in beach bars all day on the sand
12.David Citadel Hotel! - anytime!
13.Ben Yehuda Street - after Shabbat
14.Shenkin Street and great smoothies
15.Martha’s on Ibn Givriol Street at ZOA
16. Beach cliffs at Herzliya and Natanya
17.The Bakery - yummy, buttery tarts
18.The markets - Jaffa, Carmel - insanity in a word!

Tons o fun was had by all! Sitting on the plane now, waiting for takeoff from the perennially buzzing Ben Gurion Airport, after a full day - just bumped into our friend Eytan, who we dined with last night - on his way to Bucharest with all the rest!

Firstly, seriously contemplating a year long stint in Tel Aviv - so hip and cool, lots of fun, great design, frenetic pace, fantastic food. We chased the modern design options of Marrakech in February, which we thought were plentiful ... but after the past ten days in Israel I feel as if I’ve been in ground zero for cool factor. Tel Aviv port - oy - Ibn Givriol Street, Neve Tzedek, Dizengoff - how can there by so many fantastic, avant garde restaurants and shops in such density??? It’s South Beach pre-Balzac, Four Seasons, but post Sushi Samba ... amazing!

I think I could even get Jane to join me, the kids too - note to self - become fluent in Hebrew asap, shed another 10 pounds (everyone is impossibly thin, tanned, gorgeous, and nonchalant ... low slung jeans, flips, etc.) ... travel in time machine to recapture lost remnants of youth ... hmm, maybe it won’t work after all!

It was a busy few days ... let’s let it unfold chronologically, but in reverse order. Today - Sarah and Arnie left for Toronto early in the morning, and we packed up the carry-ons quickly and headed north towards Haifa. A brief stop at Aroma for lattés and we were on our way, pulling into Yemin Orde midmorning, for a tour of the village that is the rough template for the ASYV project in Rwanda. Meeting Chaim Peri, David, Ruth, Susan - a privilege and a highlight! Learning [more] about the amazing philosophy that has been embraced by the government, the Dali Lama, and countless philanthropists was fascinating. The approach that the team takes in building up the confidence of the kids who come here as a result of unfortunate and often tragic circumstances is inspiring - the entire village, which overlooks the sea and the area around Carmel, is laden with messages which help to invigorate, educate, and provide the kids with a sense of family and security.

We drove back along the coast (think Southern California) and stopped for a bit of reminiscing in Netanya, where I spent a lot of time when I was [much] younger ... although much more commercialized than when I was there, the bluffs that meet the beaches and crystal waters are still as gorgeous as ever! We popped into an internet café to print out our boarding passes for the flight home (while the kids stripped in the car and threw on their bathing suits!), and we were off towards Herzliya ... everyone was in the mood for one last ‘glida’ (gelato) so we stopped in town. The kids played basketball in the Nike store while Jane and I shopped in Habitat (much cooler than it’s European namesake) - then it was our turn to get naked in the car (aren’t we getting too old for this!?!) and ran to the beach. More beer, tahini, salads, lemonade with nana (mint), etc. - swimming in the Med, the beach was much less crowded than yesterday’s madness. We hung out with Ilana and Louis and gang (Munich contingency) and continued to hold court with Aviva, Jane’s cousin from Ra’anana. We got in the last licks of summer, watching the sunset, feet in the sand, and at 7:30 decided to pack it in. We elected to forego the Lewitans offer of showering in their nearby hotel room, and instead followed our previously unknown (and well hidden) hippy roots to shower on the beach ... a first for us, since I generally wear flip flops in most showers that do not meet the loofah test! The kids have come to the conclusion that we have flipped our lids - the documented beach showering, the dinners at 11pm, hanging out all day at the beach bar - so much for rigidity! There’s something about Israel at the end of the summer that causes one to relinquish all sanity and just go for it.

For example, are you aware that we pulled the same ridiculous stunt two days ago? After a visit to Tel Aviv University’s Cimbalista Synagogue (Mario Botta), we went into central Tel Aviv - Itzhak Rabin Square (the nearby tower block graces the cover the the City Guide to Tel Aviv) ... lunch at the previously unknown (to us) Martha’s - fantastic! Waitress: struggling actress who was living in Forest Hills, Queens for past three years; Food: delicious, delicate, elegant without being overblown or pretentious (please don’t write ‘truffle oil’ on the menu anymore - if it’s in there we’ll know it and you don’t need to justify your prices with such messages - ugghhhh!). Wine, then halvah and pecan parfait (do I need to say anything else), a quick stop at The Bakery for a tart, then onto Neve Tzedek - the roots of Tel Aviv’s European urban pioneers. Well, almost - it was 90 and sunny, so why not - once again - change in the car, swimsuits and towels forever in the back seat, and head to Banana Beach for a late afternoon dip (no, not the dip of the pita in tahini, rather a swim in the Med). Refreshing and lovely, we were well fortified for our stroll in the village like Neve Tzedek, then onward ho to Old Jaffa - mostly Arab and sumptuous by the water with splendid views of the Tel Aviv shoreline ... dinner at the unfortunately named Pu’ah was fantastic! Quaint, charming, Café Gitane-esque in it’s eclectic nature ... well fed, we moved to the next feast at Jane’s relatives in the east of the city - the entire clan was there, waiting for us patiently and graciously. The Iraqi-Israeli ruckus ensued, with the kids retiring to watch Friends in the cousin’s room (currently in the army). Is Friends on 24 hours a day in every country??? We had a fantastic, late, fun evening - everyone was so lively and fun, a real treat!!! Happy birthday Zev!

In between these days, Andi had been sick, so we mostly hung out and took it easy. Jane stayed with him, some sort of virus (ultimately leaping to her to cause her a restless night later on) ... I ventured out with my father and the older kids, along with Ilana & Louis and the girls, driving up the coast late afternoon for a visit to Caesarea, the ancient Roman ruins, and the beach with accompanying aqueduct. It was amazing, the light was fantastic, and it was quiet, being the end of the day. Really wonderful, the kids collected nautilus shells, we took a swim and yes, had more hummus, labne, and tahini by the beach there too, finally returning to find Andi much better but Jane not doing so great. My parents, zonked, went straight to bed, and we made a feeble attempt at a quick dinner near the beach, which went off once Jane really took a turn for the worse. Luckily for her (if it can be phrased that way) she was better the next morning. We zipped down to the crazy Carmel market - loud music, fruits, vegetables, underwear, sunglasses - just nuts - then out for fresh juice smoothies to the still funkified Shenkin Street before retiring back to Herzliya beach. We spent the entire afternoon lounging, drinking, eating, swimming, playing paddle ball, and chatting! Ilana, Louis, Ruggero (Milano), his assistant (former assistant to Roberto Benigni during the shooting of Life is Beautiful - Jared got a great lesson, having just seen this movie in Italian class), her Spanish friend, Ari (our Urugayan-Israeli waiter/friend) ... so great, another Tower of Babel. We ended the day at Whitehall, finally deciding that we needed to actually feed my parents a real meal - a great Shabbat dinner in town.

How could I forget - Saturday found us driving to Be'ersheva at 7 am for a visit to the Negev - desert - looking for love at the Ramon Crater deep in the south ... ibex milling about, heat, color ... then onto the ruins at Ovdat. An entire archeological site to ourselves, high above the desert floor, then onto the gorge at Ein Ovdat for a crushing hike (Sarah and Arnie in the a/c of the car). Finally, Ben Gurion's tomb and back to Herliya for a swim. We went to our friend Suzy's new apartment in Tel Aviv - magnificent and modern - for wine, cheese, and olives, before hooking up with Gili, Eytan, and the boys for a farewell dinner at the port - so delicious and so much fun ... a great 'last' evening in the metropolis! Kisses goodbye, a quick tour of Comme Il Faut, then home to bed!

So, posting this entry from the living room at home - back after a relatively easy 12 hour jaunt home on the midnight flight, and a full breakfast at the local diner at 6 am ... about to watch a DVD together (nobody wants to go to the beach on this gorgeous day - how sad!!!) ... stay tuned for more, we’re on terra firma for now though.

Happy Labor Day, hoping it’s truly labor free and fun filled!

H

PS - to see pics of our voyage visit our site and look for the Israel album!

teeny tahini, hummoungous hummus, paltry pita, and other stories

Madness!

It's been an action packed few days ... Sarah's birthday celebration on Saturday, complete with a yummy lunch at the Cinematheque in Jerusalem - puts the Angelika to shame, with sweeping views of the Old City walls and incredible foccacia - then socializing with the Sinels, a swim with all of the French, South Africans, and British at the pool, and off for a funky dinner. We ate too much, drank too much, and soaked in the spirit of Jerusalem on Shabbat, which is amazing. The late evening hours found us strolling on Ben Yehuda Street, with literally thousands of teens - all looking hip, gorgeous, and all laughing, enjoying themselves.

Israeli society is extremely loose and casual, and has a real 'free' energy that we rarely find at home. Although New York is often construed as an uninhibited, it still moves to the beat of corporate America. The most corporate feeling one gets here is the ubiquitous presence of the café chain - Aroma, Café Hillel, Arccaffé (think a quicker, more stylish version of Starbucks - and better!). This is a land of youth, and as many have explained to me, when you think of going into the army at age 18 for a few years, you grow up quickly and 'have your fun' in your early teens. Frankly, I think it's more than that. Kids roam free here, yes, with cell phone in hand, but the parents are not freaked out the way that they are in America (thanks again 20/20 and all of the other hysterical minded TV shows - pump up the madness for those ratings, at the expense of our sanity!). It seems like this is, ironically, a very safe society, and I have been struck by how sheltered Jane and I are raising our kids. Yes, they've been in the souks of Marrakesh, the windy streets of Delhi, seen most of the major monuments in Europe, and spend summers in Canada at sleep away camp. But we move, essentially, in a pack. I'm not quite sure what to make of this - Jared, Marlee, and Andi have been moving about freely here, so they can clearly 'handle' it - and yet they don't have this mobility at home (not just on our busy street, but in general). There's something to be said for the independence of the kids here, which Jane herself experienced when she lived in Tel Aviv (ages 10 to 15), and then again, there's something wonderful about spending Saturday evening with the kids at the Landmark watching a movie, or hanging out at home with a DVD, or just walking in the West Village eating Magnolia cupcakes together. Who knows ...

Sunday morning I woke Jane up, much to her horror, and at 7:30 am we were driving through East Jerusalem - completely another city, fully Oriental - towards the Temple Mount/Dome of the Rock. I had been to this site 25 years ago, and of late it has not been recommended for tourists. Things seem quieter here now (although everyone else seems to feel that it's a bit more 'tense'), so I decided I had to go back. After being turned away, by Israeli security, at a number of entry points, we were able to access the site at a checkpoint adjacent to the Western Wall. So as one ascends a wooden bridge, overlooking the Kotel as early morning prayers are taking place, you suddenly find yourself way up, in a different world, a different culture. We basically had the entire plaza surrounding the golden dome to ourselves - a few kids running around, a couple of tourists, but there we were - the dome gleaming in the early morning light, a huge open space in the middle of Jerusalem, with amazing views in every direction. It was an incredibly peaceful and wonderful moment ...

Back to the hotel, swimming, a huge breakfast on the terrace (ugggghhhh - I've been living on hummus, tahini, and chopped salads - seems light until I try to do up my pants!). Sarah and Arnie have been loving the trip - the weather (a bit too hot for them), the kids, the land - so great. We packed up after more swimming, and sadly said goodbye to the David Citadel Hotel - love it there! We ended our Jerusalem experience at the Tayelet (Haas Promenade), a gorgeous stone promenade and green park with - yes - incredible views over the entire white stone city - inspiring!

An hour later we were facing the Mediterranean in Herzliya, getting settled in our hotel - sadly, not as spectacular as our former digs but can't beat the location - directly on the shores of the sea, facing west, full sun and views, lots of space - amazing! We spoke with Ilana, our friend from Munich, and quickly zipped over to Zozobra for Asian noodles (like Kelley and Ping, but on every corner here) and a big reunion with her and the girls ... so much fun, then a huge gelato - bursting!!!

Monday morning, we were invited over to Anne's home here, the wonderful woman who is the genesis for the Rwandan project. We talked about the groundbreaking which just took place, her meeting with President Paul Kagame, and the general direction of the project - so gracious. The rest of Monday found us lying on the beach, sans Dabush, our former favorite beach shack hangout (mysteriously gone after authorities had realized they'd been operating without a license - for the past 30 years?!?!?!). We made our way to the adjacent Avi's Place on Accadia Beach - the kids swimming in the Med whilst Jane and I whittled away the hours with beer and platters of salad, hummus, Moroccan cigars, (saying "MMMMMM" every five seconds) etc.. Just sitting on those chairs, enjoying the sun, the sea, the open spaces, and relaxing - a true slice of heaven in Herzliya (an upscale northern suburb of Tel Aviv). Monday evening we went to the Port of Tel Aviv, which has been kitted out with swanky outdoor restaurants, incredible modern shops, loud music, fresh food - energy!!! Everything is open til the wee hours, and it is a very hip and cool zone - again, not overly corporate or sterile, rather unique and right on the edge of the Med - again! They do know how to use their resources here (not like NYC, where the city often turns its' back on the water, facing inwards to the Park and Fifth Avenue - although would we really want to see what's floating in the East River anyhow???).

Tuesday, ahhh, Tuesday. Chaim Weizmann's private residence in Rehovot - an amazing 1937 Bauhaus building, rigid, symmetrical, modernist, and incredibly detailed! We had a fantastic private tour - truly a highlight of the trip - and got up close and personal with the life and lifestyle of Israel's visionary first President - a dynamic and deliberate character (with extremely good taste). A fantastic experience beyond words (even for me!!!). Back on the beach later that afternoon, we sat with Sarah and Arnie while the kids were playing ball and swimming, and waited for the first wave - of friends! Along came Suzy (Vivi Nassim's mother), along with her sister Gili, husband Eytan, and their three gorgeous boys ... more ball, beer, bread, etc. - lots of laughs and fun in the late afternoon sun! My mother and Suzy, who share a birthday, enjoyed a stroll along the shore while we - well - we did nothing!!! Ilana appeared for a late afternoon drink, and Gili recognized her from a chance encounter that they had at a Tel Aviv pool five years ago (and their passionate discussion about the brutality of a particular 'kikar' in the center of the city) - so here was Gili, from TA, familiar with Ilana from Bavaria - connect the dots!

The second wave followed - Tania and Ruggero, from Milano, who have been living here for one year - with their kids. They are also friends with Ilana, and Louis (who subsequently arrived, fresh off the plane from Munich) ... we had last all been together in Venezia two years ago, so it was great to hang out in Tel Aviv and rekindle old times ... we were all friends, sans enfants, in the original New York days.

Gili, Eytan, Suzy and the boys left us, and we look forward to dinner with them Saturday evening. We hung out late on the beach - 10pm - eating more giant platters, drinking, laughing, talking, the kids conversing in Hebrew, French, English, Italian - but most through playing ball and games - a real Tower of Babel. Sadly, we said our goodbyes, having tried to reach Debbie and Dino in Brussels by phone (no answer - they are also mutual friends to all of us) ... the last stragglers adamantly demanding another gelato at 11pm (so off we went to town in bathing suits - quite a sight!). My parents declined, I think they'll need a real vacation after we're done with Asia Minor!!!

Today, off to Tel Aviv to explore the original Bauhaus architecture of the White City, a bite at Sushi Samba (same as NY), a stroll through Neve Tzedek, a light dinner in Jaffa, then an evening coffee with Jane's relatives - hope we can get directions to their home, literally no one in Israel has any sense of where anything else is relative to their own position. Needing a little GPS TLC!!!

Love to all from the shores of Israel,

Harley

it's the economy, stupid!

Okay, so even a staunch communist (really a socialist) can be cynical.

Is peace achievable based on economics? In reality, is what we read and see about the Middle East a symptom of political stances, which have affected the judgment of all parties? Don't people, all people, just want to provide for their families, enjoy their friends, and live in peace? I know, I know - you THINK that people are brainwashed, or are born a certain way, or are 'different' from us. BUT, this summer has provided me with a personally unique perspective on war, genocide, differences, and the only conclusion that I've drawn is that I'm totally confused and perplexed by human behavior. Has anyone read the recent article in National Geographic which indicates that humans can learn a tremendous amount from ants? Yup, the ants seem to have it all figured out - not necessarily motivated by the big picture - rather, activated by sensations which are given off 'mano a mano' ... personal interactions from one creature to the other which ultimately serve the greater good of a productive society.

So, is our subjugation of the Chinese labor force a symptom of our desire to purchase 5 dollar t-shirts at Target (my love!), with little or no regard to THEIR safety or labor conditions (unless of course there's lead in them there Mattel toys!). And on a greater scale, can't there be peace here in the the Middle East if we make the connections, one by one, person to person? All I hear is that it's totally naive, yet when I walk the ancient streets of Jerusalem, I want to, no, have to believe that it's all possible, even miraculous! I invite you to join me in my optimism, misguided as it may be - maybe we can effect change and make a difference ...

Today - sunny, hot, bright - no, brilliant! Breakfast on the terrace of the David Citadel (sadly, I have come to the chilling realization that I really DO love having my butt kissed while on vacation - how depressing, more so than my need for reading glasses from CVS!). Sinels appear, just in time for cappuccinos, kids all excited - maps out, what are we going to do? The Swedler clan heads for the Mahane Yehuda market - halvah, dried fruits, white cheeses, kippot - amazing, clean, wonderful, and exciting for the onset of Shabbat. Luckily, Gideon, our new friend, has pointed us in the direction of Marzipan on Agrippas Street for deadly rugelach - oh, the pain of it all! Too much food, so little time! Glad I've been eating Kashi bars for the last few weeks!

Through the stalls, then onto the quaint neighborhood of Nachalaot, past the bougainvillea, houses, spray painted images of James Dean, winding streets, artists, and back to the car. The searing heat called for a dip in the pool overlooking the old city back at the hotel - I even listened to Maroon 5 and Justin Timberlake on Andi's i-pod ... speedo and huge magen david completing my outfit (much to Marlee's horror!!). Swimming, ping pong, Slushees, it's all good. Even a few religious women sporting the Judaic version of burqinis (have you seen these - spandex 'dresses' with sporty stripes suitable for modest women from plying the beaches from Afghanistan - no beaches - to Cyprus). Supreme relaxation, overlooking the city, then Jane and I head up to the Executive Lounge (can you imagine us as executives!? no room for a briefcase in those speedos!), a quick iced coffee, then down to get the kids (kicking and screaming). Off to the Old City...

Jaffa Gate (huge bagels with seeds), the Armenian Quarter, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (amazing, including the Ethiopian Monastery on the roof!), through the souks, and finally the Jewish Quarter. They've built a reconstructed version of the Hurva Synagogue over the ever present freestanding arch, how sad! Onto the Western Wall/Kotel, the kids leading the way by rote from our trip two years ago - incredible! We tied red strings to our hands (evil eye), then off to the Wall - amazing, with the Dome of the Rock in the background (which I want to visit Sunday morning, once again to Jane's chagrin!). Pre-Sabbath walk about, a quick call from Ruggero, then back to the hotel in a taxi (with Jane absurdly negotiating to save 2 dollars - you can take the girl out of Baghdad, but can't take Baghdad out of the girl!). Back 'home' for a quick change, a glass or three of wine in the Executive Lounge (again!), an episode of Friends (what else is new?), then down for Shabbat dinner with the Sinels and their cousins. We were 17 people for an amazing, incredible, filling evening (spiritually, nourishment, etc.)., the kids sitting for three hours, lots of French, English, Americans, etc.. What a night, talking about movies with Randi's cousins (lovely!), just great ...

Tomorrow brings an early morning walk, a drive to Masada, birthday wishes for Sarah, and a celebratory dinner at Arcadia before our customary post-Shabbat walk on Ben Yehuda Street (funky boutiques, loud music, young people drinking iced coffee, etc.).

Wishing you all a Shabbat Shalom and great weekend from Jerusalem,

Harley

middle yeast

Shalom, y'all!

Well, 40 days at Sinai seems like nothing compared to an overnight flight to Tel Aviv!

Café Gitanes on Mott Street Wednesday morning did take the edge off - fresh citron pressé, a friande, and a café creme is not a bad way to start a journey (not even a bad as a grand finalé to an adventure). We left the heart of Nolita for ... the heart of ... Newark? Ah, New Jersey in the haze, a lovely site, although to be fair the view can't ever be that great on the way to the airport. Carryons in hand, we made our way to Terminal C for our Continent-hell flight to Tel Aviv - mercifully pre-checkin was done at home, so it was a simple stroll to the gate. Frozen yogurt, wine, pizza - we had all the airport classics, and boarded the full flight. Ten hours, twelve shrieking babies, six movies, and four Chardonnays later we were in the Middle East (or Middle Yeast, depending on how much pita one consumes).

Israel - at the shores of the Mediterranean, sunny and dry - a pleasure to be back! This time, no wait for bags, no jitters on Jane's part (carrying that Israeli passport - does she really think they'd want her in the army - they did see Private Benjamin after all!). Slightly bleary eyed, we made our way to Eldan to get the much maligned (and rightly so!) minivan - looking faux sporty in white - and drove to Jerusalem. The hills, the pines, the sun - truly gorgeous as ever, with the native white stone applied to all buildings - quite a city! Finally, past the King David, to 'our own' David Citadel Hotel - cool, modern, comfortable, we were greeted kindly and were offered gifts, dinner in honor of Sarah's birthday, wine, etc.. Nice to be spoiled, particularly amidst such refinement - off to the pool, 90 degree heat, basking and resting while gazing at the walls of the Old City! A chat with the young man putting towels on the lounges - Palestinian - brings (what everyone defines as my naive) hope for peace - person to person, everything can be solved!??! Let me dream -

Splashing about, fighting jet lag, and there were Sarah and Arnie, fresh off their Toronto flight - happy to see the grandchildren, loving Israel, looking forward to an adventure filled holiday. Is the mobile working? How about the wi-fi? Yes, all is in order, now we can get down to spirituality!!!

Jane and I left the kids to meet Gideon Hirscher, who works with Joint Distribution Committee here in Israel. We had a 3pm meeting, drove over to his offices near the Knesset Parliament, and were warmly greeted, again! We spent two hours talking about Rwanda (he's just back two days, after making provisions for the village we're working on there - educators, politicians, President Paul Kagame, etc.). We spent a lot of time discussing the feelings that I had when I was there - a gentle society that cannibalized itself thirteen years ago - and talked about different theories - how can they move forward so graciously? Murderers and victims living side by side? What lessons could Israelis learn from this, in their land surrounded by Arab neighbors (can we all learn a lesson from Rwanda's turnaround? is it real and lasting?). So many issues, so little time! Gideon is fascinating, dedicated, and passionate, a great person to talk to upon arriving - a former Californian who has been here ten years! He encouraged us to visit the Mehane Yehuda market in the morning, and to join him at his favorite hole-in-the-wall hummus joint Saturday morning (along with tea on the rooftop overlooking the Old City) if we don't make the journey to Masada (planned).

Back at the hotel, we hooked up with the kids, relaxed, showered, and got ready for dinner - we had reservations at a local restaurant but Sandra from the Citadel had arranged for us to dine in the hotel's restaurant 'on them'. We gladly did so, exploring in earnest the salads, sauces, wines and flavors of the country ... and barely made it back upstairs. Feeling a little jet lagged and full, everyone has just conked out, and I'm about to follow. Our friends the Sinels (from home) have just arrived, and we will have Shabbat dinner with them tomorrow evening, overlooking the city's ancient ramparts ... can't wait.

Wishing you all a great day from Jerusalem,

Harley

bard simpson

Fabulousness continues, with a dollop of unbridled misery - so it goes!

Jane and I were treated to an amazing Saturday - having left the confines of our Long Island digs, we headed upstate towards Kingston ... a picture perfect if humid day, humming along in the Mini Cooper, with nary a care in the world. Outfitted with Total Greek yogurt and bottles of seltzer, we made our way along the west bank of the Hudson, reaching Kingston a bit later than anticipated. There, like a beacon on the hill, stood the Courtyard by Marriott, beckoning us with the promise of wood grained formica, a neat indoor pool, and 24 hour coffee center. In reality, what could be better. And guess what, it was darn near the best hotel I ever stayed in! We even opted for a room overlooking the parking lot instead of the mountains (mysteriously told that it was quieter). Overlooking Lowe's, Target, and other big box retailers, we felt happy and content!

We quickly changed: she in a dapper sundress from the Nolita Sunday market, he in Rwanda worn H&M khakis (yes, I said khakis!), skinny black tie, and safari style shirt. We crossed the Hudson, following the route through Red Hook to Lea and Vic's amazing annual feast! We were warmly greeted by our hostesses, Kathy and Gilles, and all of the other interesting and familiar faces that we've grown happy to see at this yearly event ... catching up, toasting, heckling, and talking about architecture, life, travel, food, film - heavenly and fun filled!

Most (other than those of us who become particularly slothy in the summer months) were busy prepping in the kitchen, where Victoria was lord over the lowly serfs - chopping, marinating, mashing, slicing, dicing, etc.. The table outside beckoned with fuchsia table cloth and clean, white tent ... a table set for 40? Delightful, with a smattering of gorgeous children playing tag and swimming.

We had a drink or two, and when dinner was called, all descended upon the table ... flowers, candles, tivoli lights, and great company ... Lea served as master of ceremonies, and we all were given a lovely copy of the evening's menu ... hand drawn, inspired by Roy's phenomenal wine selections - each course matched to a different beverage, perfectly suited and amazing. We were all broken into 'teams' - making the final preparations for a particular course, plating said course, and serving it (not to mention picking up the plates upon completion!). A great way to get everyone 'invested' in the spirit of the evening!

We languished for hours in the garden, slowly filling up on course after course of delicious and inventive food lovely orchestrated by Vic and Roy ... and sadly it was time to move on in the wee hours. Alas, as Jane and I got into the Mini, it had decided to sleep for the evening ... and would not start! No amount of prodding or pushing would move it, so we abandoned it and took Lea's car back to the hotel, for much needed sleep. The next morning, after complimentary coffee and a quick workout, Jane and I headed back to the house for breakfast and a quick boost ... off we motored, to nearby Bard College to see the Fischer Hall designed by Frank Gehry, architect du jour (and some jours gone by!). It was great to see and even more fun to photograph for Andi, who LOVES Frank Gehry's work. We continued on from there, passing through the lovely Hudson Valley and finally hitting I-87 ...

Traffic got a little tough as we neared the Tappan Zee Bridge - it was stop and start, more stop than start ... suddenly we heard a loud 'boom', and a second later we were rear-ended by another car, that had been hit by the vehicle behind them, plowing us into the car in front of us ... four car pileup, everyone being perfectly fine (we were barely moving), but of course our car sustained the most damage, looking not unlike a Frank Gehry building - fluctuating sheets of metal twisted in many different directions!

Fast forward two hours, police report in hand, not our fault miraculously, we continued home - stopping for a quick Fontana gyro lest we not be well fed while aggravated ... Jane with her Greek salad, me with my sandwich, in the mangled Mini - it was quite a sight!

We made it home, and decided the only remedy would be a French movie ... My Best Friend, with Daniel Auteil ... very cute, light, and perfect for the evening ...

A glass of wine took the edge off when we returned home, ready for Monday's inevitable battles - not so bad really!

Hope you had a great weekend too,

Harley

roque stars

Nothing like being in four countries in ten hours! Not to mention, using every mode of transportation in that same time span ... the only thing I didn’t do to get here was portage a canoe!

Kigali, Nairobi, Brussels ... high speed train to Paris, metro to the hotel ... and finally, the City of Light and my lovely child bride. So great to see Jane, who was waiting for me in our very boutiquey room with café creme, croissants, Ladurée macarons, confitures, and all the trimmings. The sun was out full force, we relaxed and caught up on the week’s events, and just hung out (hotel: total modern design, very hip, very cool, and thankfully, VERY air conditioned!). How could I have been dressed in working clothes in equatorial Africa and been perfectly comfortable, and here in northern Europe we’re in a deep schvitz?

We finally left the hotel, and starting strolling the familiar streets. What a magnificent day, and our location is perfect - just off the Canal St. Martin, close to the Bastille. Jane really took advantage of her time alone on Saturday before my arrival - intensive stroll, two hour lunch at la Frommagerie 31 (wine, cheese, and a political discussion of American foreign policy with a Norwegian and Spaniard - good for her!). I’m happy that she had a chance to do this ... a little solitude can be very refreshing (beyond going to the dry cleaners or Stop and Shop to pick up our prescriptions!).

We had only made it a short distance when we came across a perfectly aligned row of gray bicycles ... Jane had happened to see a story on BBC before I arrived yesterday about said ‘velos’. The City of Paris government had purchased 10,000 of these bikes and installed them in groups, every 300 metres, around the city (700 locations). Yesterday, 15 July, was to be their first operational day, and guess who took availed themselves of this opportunity??? The rental fee is apparently 1 euro for the day, and you can return them to any point in the city. The concept is that ordinary Parisians will use them to get to work and run errands, thereby reducing carbon emissions, traffic, noise, etc.. Very smart, oui?

We were literally mobbed everywhere we went ... where did you get the velos? Are they heavy? How much? People were incredibly friendly and warm, and as they day wore on, literally thousands of people had taken to this new, very clever feature of Paris (we can’t even get a public toilet on the streets of New York!!!). What a day! We rode all the way up the Canal St. Martin to the MK2 Cinemas - our favorite Parisian haunt to watch a foreign movie. We got the schedule, and as it was 90 degrees, sat down for - you guessed it - the obligatory bottle of wine and green salad ... people were out, we were sitting and water’s edge, and Jane and I went intensively over Rwandese culture and politics.

We continued our journey past Montmartre, getting stopped and interviewed every few minutes. What a great spirit the city had - a real summertime feeling. Admittedly, it is very strange to be here without the kids - the last five visits have been with them - and quite frankly, lovely for Jane and I as a couple! We wheeled on, past the Louvre, Tuileries, and into St. Germain des Pres for gelato at this great place in the Buci market. It was mobbed! Jane went to fetch the ice cream, I hung out and chatted with our friends David-Alexandre and Aurelie, who happen to be in Venice right now. They are a fun French couple who we met in India last year, and although they are Parisians, they are now living in Morocco for work (he is with a multinational company). We missed seeing them in February when we were in North Africa, and we realized a couple of weeks ago that we would overlap in Paris - for today only! We arranged to have dinner with them this evening, either at their home in Neuilly-sur-Seine or at a bistro in town.

We sped quickly from the mob, past Invalides, along rue Cler, to the Champs de Mer and the ubiquitous Tour Eiffel - again, thousands of people laying on the grass, picnicking, relaxing ... amazing (think Central Park on a Sunday afternoon). Onto the quai Branly, past the new museum, and we were truly getting exhausted. We agreed it was either going to be our mutual demise, or cold ‘pressions’ (draught beers), foie gras, and a cheese plate! Off to Le Comptoir for an outdoor table, delicious food (as noted above), a tart tatin, very uncharacteristically (for us, at least) rude service (universally applied to both French and English clientele). Also, we had been here with the kids a while ago, and when Marlee ordered the cheese plate, I rudely dug in for a taste of the creamy yellow cheese in the center of the plate, shoved it in my mouth, only to discover I had ingested a huge glob of warm (yummy) butter. Guess what I did last night when our own cheese platter arrived! Oh well, some people never learn!

The city is filled with Americans, Spanish, Italians (I think there may be one or two Gaulists here too!). We sped over to MK2, bought tickets for the 10pm showing of Bubble, a new Israeli movie (great), and returned our bikes. We were planning to chain them to a pole, and when the movie ticketer saw us do this, he said we should return them at the drop around the corner. He told us it was silly to pay for the bikes if we weren’t using them, but we replied that since they were only 1 euro per day, it was no big deal - to which he replied that was only the fee for ‘subscription’ - not the actual rental fee! See, read the fine print, even if it’s in French! We scurried off, as if we had seen a ghost, got rid of those damned bikes, paid our enormous ‘facture’, and went back to the theater. The movie was superb - loved it - and we highly recommend it!

It let out a midnight, we strolled past Notre Dame, Ile St. Louis, and arrived back ‘home’ - our room was mercifully freezing, and it was most welcome.

Jane sends hugs and kisses to all, as do I -

A bientot,

Harley

bastille day

Rwanda draws to a close ... I'm at the airport now, waiting for my flight via Nairobi back to Europe. Jane is already in Paris, eating fromage and walking the Seine - she arrived early this morning and is taking in the sun before the deluge begins on Monday ... rainy days in Paris? I prefer 'le soleil'.

Today was mellow ... packing up to leave, a delicious breakfast on the terrace in the warm African sun, overlooking the pool and garden ...

I went to the Genocide Memorial in Kigali with Sifa, Thierry, and Sifa's lovely children Odette and Daniel ... as I have mentioned, the scale, savageness, and speed of the genocide is beyond comprehension, particularly as one moves through the exhibits at the memorial. Horror! How do humans seemingly continuously repeat history???

There is a garden overlooking the hills of the city, and just beneath that, on a terrace a level below, are mass graves - 25,000 souls buried there. Families are constantly finding remains of loved ones, even after 13 years, so today there was about 200 people gathered for yet another burial on the site ... many families actually know where their kins' remains are, but are too poor to pay for the ceremony.

After this sombering experience, we went for lunch to Hotel Rwanda (Hotel des Mille Collines) - the hotel appears to be 'normal', yet it is amazing to think of the many people that took refuge in that place during the killings. I have been told that the rooms, although cleaned after the events, have not been renovated - the stained carpets remain where hundreds of people were packed into guest rooms ...

Paradoxically, we sat at the pool and had cold drinks and a very tasty lunch, so how bizarre is that? We laughed, talked about the week, met up with Sifa's brothers, and played 'hangman' with her kids ... really sweet. I went to a local market for an hour before heading back for my ride to the airport. We all bid fond fairwells, ready to continue our journey, both metaphorically and physically.

Thank you for following the blog this past week, and for all of your comments and support - it really made the experience fun and it was my pleasure to share my thoughts with you.

Have a great weekend, I'm off to Paris now!

Harley

parting is such sweet sorrow

Top 10 things I like about Rwanda:

1. The weather (78 and sunny every day)

2. The people (also 78 and sunny every day!)

3. Downtown Kigali

4. Optimism

5. Determination

6. The countryside (land of a thousand hills - at least!)

7. Body language

8. The handshake

9. The fact that the country is starting fresh - essentially 14 years old

10. The new friends I made this week

I can honestly say that the past 7 days have been life altering in the best way possible ... inspiring, action packed, fun, and meaningful. I came to this country with gorillas and genocide on my mind, and leave tomorrow evening feeling as if I have been touched and honored in the most profound way. This has hands down been the best journey of my life!

I’ve just returned home from a dinner that the architects organized for 35 people at the most funky restaurant in Kigali (square white plates with organic food, great cold beer, etc.). The evening was organized in honor of Sifa and myself - the entire architectural office (not just our team), the engineers, wives, secretaries, contractors - you name them - bet you can’t - and they were there. In addition to a fun filled four hour soirée, traditional Rwandan dancers made lively appearances for us in our own room, and we all danced too! The spirit and energy were incredible - what an event! Speeches were made thanking me for coming from New York - my pleasure - and the project itself was feted in many ways. Additionally, after many people taking the floor, I was given a traditional ‘kings’ stick - a long cane with an ‘O’ handle - the entire item covered in horse hair and beads the color of the Rwandan flag. We laughed and I told everyone I would not use it to walk the hilly site, but would beat them if the project was being done in accordance with our desires! ... It was an incredibly touching, warm, and lovely send off ...

Today was primarily a touring day. After meeting with the architects at their office, I was delighted to find that all of the notions and concepts that we discussed this past week had been implemented into the overall scheme for the children’s village. I left feeling elated, and that my visit to Rwanda was a success - I came to assist in the proper realization of this dream, and it looks as if the work is headed in the right direction!

I was so relieved to learn that Eric and Marcellin, from the office, would be taking me to the south ... P-Diddy no more, meaning no more valium at 10 am for me. Eric drives nice and slow, the speed limit actually, setting a completely different tone on our journey. Our drive to Butare took us through the most magnificent countryside, with tall hills, deep valleys, and markets framing the view. The three of us discussed, in French, the state of world affairs during our two hour journey. These guys are highly educated and cultured, care deeply about the state of the world, the environment, and humanity, and are extremely informed. We determined that I was the optimist, Eric was the idealist (making declarations and saying ‘full stop’ after each point), and Marcellin was the cynic! Our talk continued over lunch when we arrived in the southern province, with Marcellin and Eric explaining to me the virtues of African family values and the concern they have with Western democracies ... they believe that countries need more ‘benevolent dictators’ - leaders who use their power for the good of the people to elevate all of society (taking notes GWB?), with a minimum of dissent from the population.

Rwanda has only been able to move forward with strong leaders who have insisted that the country heals by forgiving the past and going forward from there. When I first arrived one week ago, the genocide did not appear to be on the surface. As I prepare to leave for Europe, it seems to be (understandably) a huge part of everyone’s life. Although it is constantly mentioned officially in the press, one is given the initial impression that it is in the past. It is not. Yet, everyone moves forward, feeling the Rwanda has the potential for incredible growth and development.

I asked whether it is difficult for outsiders (the ubiquitous Ugandans, Kenyans, and Congolese) to adjust to life in Rwandan society when they move here for work. I was repeatedly given the same answer - the country is only 13 years old, and they are fully accepted in all circles, and are welcomed. As many of the Rwandese who currently live here arrived post 1994 (many had been born in Congo and Burundi and only moved to Rwanda as adults), they too are ‘new’ to the country.

Our journey took us through the national university campus (tuition is $10 a year, with a $50 per month subsidy paid to each student - kind of like US schools, no?), and on to the National Museum. I was given a one hour tour with an English (?) speaking tour guide - when I asked Marcellin and Eric how long they had known her, they stared at me blankly and said they just met her. It seems as if they were old friends, chatting in a relaxed way and laughing (no body language whatsoever). At one point I turned around, and the docent and Eric were walking holding hands! So, more Rwandan idiosyncrasies ... men and men, women and women, and men and women hold hands briefly while walking. When they want to make a point they will often snap their fingers then point at something. When they want to express how much they like something, they will say ‘I like it TOO much’ or will say ‘it is TOO nice’. After the tour, the guys bought gifts for Jane and the kids in the gift shop - so sweet - for me to take him, imploring me to return with the family as soon as possible (asap - Eric recently received an email asking for something ‘asap’ - no periods between the letters - and couldn’t make any sense of it!).

Eric had actually bumped into his friend Vivien (male) so we offered him a lift back to Kigali ... although we were stopping at the Kings Palace on the way back to see the traditional round Rwandan huts. By the time we got there, it was closed, but Vivien knew someone who knew someone, and before we knew it the gates were opened. We had a private tour of the site, as the sun was setting - incredible! The monochromatic textures of the natural materials were amazing.

As we approached Kigali, I was told that they would drop me back to the hotel, and that they would pick me up within 30 minutes, after I had a chance to shower (okay already, I’ll take a shower! shheeez!). Off we went to the dinner!

I really had a chance to talk with everyone, which was great! Kiki, the head honcho, wanted to know my secret for staying a ‘normal size’ as he put it ... even here they’re worried about their weight and staying in shape! The clutches of botox cannot be far behind!

Jane is on her way to Paris right now, and I am looking forward to joining her Sunday morning. Tomorrow I am visiting the Genocide Memorial, and hope to hang out a bit and relax. I have a long flight back - Kigali to Nairobi, Kenya - then onto Brussels, then the high speed train to Paris - hopefully Jane will have breakfast waiting for me when I arrive!

Wishing you all a great evening and Shabbat Shalom,

Harley

rwanda civic

For those of you who have not yet booked into Costa Rica for Christmas, please consider the following, as noted in today’s edition of the New Times:

“At the first sight, Jambo Beach Muhazi, one is immediately attracted by its new grass-thatched huts, different from the previous look. Under the new management, Jambo Investment Group, renovations have been made giving the place a new ambiance. Despite the fact that the beach misses the lake side sand and is also very small, people enjoying the remaining option of boat riding and sitting by the side of the lake as they share a bottle or two, a buffet, or some sort of snacks. Nothing is as exciting as taking off in one of the two available boats, or seeing the crane bird that has attracted foreigners to take its picture”.

So, let me get this straight. There’s two boats, a crane bird, and a partridge in a pear tree, right?

Before I get into the day, which was amazing, let me start with my late afternoon. Today we worked through lunch so we could get Sifa, my peer, back to her family at a decent hour - the resulting and unexpected benefit for me was my early arrival back to my luxurious home (how will I ever cope with Windex again!). On the way here, we had passed through a different part of the center of town (ie. one block away from where I was the other day) and it was mobbed with people. Don’t forget, we’re just below the equator, so even though it is light out well into the evening at home, the sun sets (pitch black!) at 6:30 at night. So, at 4:30, the city took on the certain orange glow, with the light changing rapidly minute by minute. I quickly changed and walked back into town, so happy to see a bit more in the daylight hours.

When I reached the main commercial area, I was in heaven. Even I, who as you know, can blather on and on, was at a loss for words. There were so many people out, just hanging, strolling, shopping - sharply dressed (now I know where the men get those great pointy shoes!), eating, meeting, greeting... it was, to be quite corny, a literal kaleidoscope! I cannot possibly describe it ... suffice it to say, it was balmy, sunny, relaxed, and easy. Although it was completely full of life, it was not noisy, polluted, or ‘scary’ - on the contrary, I felt secure and really enjoyed myself, photographing everything I could to savor the flavor of the day (eat your heart out Baskin Robbins).

After walking for a couple of hours, I headed to an indoor ‘mall’ which contained an Arab run supermarket - actually, more like Target Kigali. Very cool, with every product organized in an orderly fashion - German toothpaste, Kenyan yogurt, candies from Uganda, and lots of stuff from Dubai. As my lone bag is stuffed with work clothes and a small wardrobe for Paris, I limited myself to purchases which were flat (there were none). There is not ONE t-shirt to be purchased in Rwanda that actually says Rwanda! No bumper stickers! No national flags - frustrating, as my usual purchases are unavailable ... sorry, kids!

Back to square one ... an early wakeup call, down for a huge breakfast at 6:15 (I’m addicted to the roast tomatoes with cheese - yup, 6:15 in the morning - don’t ask!). Off to the workout room overlooking the pool, which incidentally puts any ‘centre de remise en forme’ I’ve seen anywhere else to shame! Malheureusement, the South African gentleman on the treadmill next to me was humming loudly, almost chanting whilst walking, throwing off my rhythm and obstructing my audible association with BBC playing on the tv. It’s always something ... never mind about global warming! Let’s sweat the small stuff!

I may have lead you astray yesterday. I’m not so sure they say ER-wanda here ... I’m beginning to think it’s actually ‘RANDA’ ... you say potato, I say potato, etc... We had a very productive meeting with the architects yet again, they have mysteriously switched back to setting the conference room with bottled water and not the short-lived mango nectar I had briefly grown accustomed to. A good choice I think, despite the article I read in the New York Times the other day detailing the efforts of Alice Waters is spearheading - upscale and socially conscious restaurants should only be serving tapwater. Bottled water uses additional resources (plastics, transportation to deliver the water, energy, etc.) and she has encouraged others to follow suit. As restauranteurs produce more profitable income from the sale of this beverage than any other item on their menu (so much for seared foie gras!), they have decided to let her lead the way. Go ask Alice.

I digress. As we were preparing to leave for our working lunch, Kiki (the grand patron) informed us that a retaining wall in Kigali had tumbled over, burying alive 20 people. It was directly across the street from the Indian restaurant that we were going to, so P-Diddy, our driver, immediately rushed us to the scene of the accident. Horrible, as they were using bulldozers to dig out the survivors or deceased. As it turns out, 3 people were killed, not 20, but obviously tragic nonetheless.

We had a great Indian lunch, in a faux Indian temple with Rwandans dressed up in faux Indian clothes (does this mean the chicken was actually tofu?). Yummy, and we got a lot accomplished, before speeding off to meet the contractor for our project. Their anacronym is FAIR - let’s hope say. They seemed happy to receive us, even though the scale of our very large project is minute compared to the tower blocks they are constructing. At any rate, they were gracious and set us up in yet another conference room with the obligatory beverages (I had loaded up on Indian chai masala at lunch so I had reached my quota). They pledged their assistance and commitment to this venture which is helping to build their country (although everyone is actually from Congo, Uganda, or Kenya). After a tour of the concrete mixing facility (conjuring up nasty images from the episode of Six Feet Under when someone meets their untimely demise in a similarly scaled mixer), we hit the road for a grand tour of some of the contractor’s other projects. I rode shotgun in the right-driver-sided BMW ... no wonder it feels like home! We walked through the sites, and Fred, the contractor, was a real pleasure. He and Kiki actually had traveled to Israel a while back to visit Yemin Orde, the model for this project ... they loved it there! I am looking forwarding to my own visit to the village next month when we are in Herzliya.

When I returned to the hotel after my grand afternoon stroll, I was totally invigorated! I did some more work, then Alain (aka Will Smith) called and said he’d drop by for a drink. I was just going down for a light bite on the terrace, so I enjoyed my samosas (delicious!) and beer while reading the paper. Alain joined me and we had a very lengthy discussion about Rwanda’s reconstruction and recovery ... how the country has banded together, but every April, when the rains begin, it is difficult for people to forget the horrors of the genocide. We discussed the great economic opportunities that exist here, in the ‘virgin economy’ (sorry Richard Branson, hope I’m not infringing on the trademark!). The Rwandans are constantly being encouraged by the press and the government to continue to elevate the standards of their work ethic, and to strengthen their resolve to help educate, make women equal partners, wipe out malaria, fight poverty and ignorance, etc.. There is even a model for the three child household - the first three are free (school, medical care, etc.), the you pay for the services of the children born after... Jane, we could actually live here after all!

And speaking of Jane, we had a little phone conference, and she’s off to Paris tomorrow. I, on the other hand, am traveling to Butare to see the countryside, visit the Kings House, and see the museum. It is actually the architects that are taking me on my excursion - when we return to Kigali in the late afternoon, I have been informed that I will take a shower (okay, I guess I will then) and we will all go out for a farewell dinner (with Alain and Sifa too, others joining I’m sure). Too soon to leave, not enough time, but overall, extremely fulfilling and fascinating!

Kisses from Kigali,

Harley