Excerpt from today’s edition of The New Times:
“Students do not respect elders they share public transport with. School girls put on like market women vendors. Boys dress like American gangsters. This is crazy! Discipline in Rwandan schools is still lacking. Uniformity is a key in schools’ discipline. Pupils need to dress uniformly - socks, shoes, and uniform shirts/trousers/dresses. Some parents argue that they are too poor to buy their kids uniforms, yet afford much more expensive gangster attires. The shabby way students dress here cannot be the Rwandan way! What kind of adults shall we have tomorrow if kids dress like gangsters?”
Hey! Just because your behind is hanging out of your pants doesn’t mean you’re a gangsta!
And speaking of discipline, let’s not forget the genocide that happened in Rwanda 13 years ago. President Paul Kagame officiated at ceremonies marking this anniversary on July 4th, with an optimistic eye towards the peaceful reconstruction of the country. Not only are intensive efforts underway to solve the social problems of the country, but this tiny East African nation is actively seeking, and getting, economic investment from around the globe. The old notion of peace through prosperity (or hopeful prosperity) seems to have taken root here.
The interesting and jarring thing for me, as a foreigner, is the dichotomy between the people here and the very recent events of the past. The typical Rwandan, to me, is humble, quiet, well presented, honest, and reserved. How did a nation comprised of such individuals implode, bringing death to approximately 1 million people in 3 months? More astonishing is the ability of the populace to actively forgive and move forward - Tutsis and Hutus live side by side, hand in hand now. They work together, eat together, and run this country together. There are those who have killed, who, after admitting guilt, are free - they live in the same communities as the survivors of their victims. And there seems to be no outward animosity, mistrust, or division in the society.
Today, the author Immaculé Ilibagiza, who wrote the best-selling book ‘Left to Tell’ about the genocide, was at the hotel for an interview (I missed her). Her biographic tale spells out her own story of survival, faith, and healing here. It seems almost naive in its faith based explanation of the genocide, the ever present genocide (in the press at least), yet this is how she and many others survived.
Interestingly enough, this is one of those rare countries where America is ‘tops’ as someone told me today. The US is constructing a new, huge embassy here ... and is actively seeking to garner more support and create a base in this stable republic. In light of the not too distant embassy bombings in neighbors Kenya and Tanzania, I can only assume that the American presence allows our administration to monitor events in East Africa. I have been told that the current airport in Kigali will become a military base for the US, and that they will construct a new civil airport for the capital. Additionally, and all of you out there that scoff at my love of Paris, macarons, St. Germain, Citroens, and all things French - you will be happy to know that France is positively vilified in Rwanda. Their embassy is vide - empty - and in recent days the press here has run accounts of how the French government tacitly gave their permission for, or at minimum turned a blind eye to the slaughter here. The accounts, which first ran in the French papers, has been reproduced widely. Paradoxically, the Belgians, who formerly had a presence here and have offered their apologies for not doing more, still thrive here - building projects, aid workers, etc..
Kigali is, as it turns out, a large city after all - not huge, but bigger than I thought. There are neighborhoods that sprawl out from the city center, fanning out across the hills - although there is certainly poverty here, the city seems quite orderly (and is positively spotless!!!). Certainly in relation to a more developed country like India - which is a swirling mass of color, noise, teeming masses of people, livestock etc.. I was able to take a 3 hour tour with my Rwandan colleagues today, looking at architectural projects and construction sites. At the technical college we visited, I was the freak show - a stranger first of all, and a white stranger at that! Now, once again, believe me - these students seemed sophisticated in matters of dress, mannerisms, subject content, etc.. Maybe it’s just me - all those rings on my fingers, my hip huggin’ pants, etc.!!!
In addition to my ‘tour’ I had a good working day. I met up with my colleague Sifa in the morning - she was meeting with the head of an NGO which provides assistance to households that are headed by children (ie. orphans who are living on their own, caring for siblings in many cases). This particular non-governmental organization works with about 5,000 such individuals! He was kind enough to give us a lift to the architects’ office, where we basically hammered out more concepts for the village being built in the countryside. Tomorrow we will travel there, meeting with the governor of the province, who has given his support for the work. If only everyone could be as accommodating! Our group recently purchased a Land Cruiser for use here - it was bough in Dubai, where it is about half the cost of what it would be here, in this landlocked country. The car was shipped to Mombassa and driven across East Africa, finally entering Rwanda on Sunday. It has been in customs awaiting (ever-changing) paperwork before it is released - a guarantee by a bank that if the car is sold the tax will be paid on it (we are tax exempt). Even that status has to be re-ratified by an ‘act of congress’!
I love how Rwandans shake hands (which absolutely every male does as a sort of ‘hello’ greeting) ... they kind of slap their hand at you (almost a horizontal ‘high 5’) then grasp your hand firmly. It’s very hip. Others just kiss 3 times, kind of putting us 2-cheekers to shame! I get the handshake from everyone, including 3 of the hotel porters who spotted me in town the other day and are now so happy to see me in the lobby every time I go out.
Food was great today too - I had lunch with Sifa and Alain (aka Will Smith) at an Indian restaurant - very good indeed, nothing fancy. I was so exhausted this evening I went to the main ‘fancy’ restaurant at the hotel and had a huge, absolutely delicious meal. I inquired today as to why there are no fast food chains here, particularly in light of the aforementioned love of America! We’d love to get our hands on those trim Rwandans and ply them with a dose of our own saturated fat and corn syrup! I was told flat out that the one thing Rwandans do not import is food - everything is locally grown or produced, and is always fresh. Bravo!
A bientot,
Harley
“Students do not respect elders they share public transport with. School girls put on like market women vendors. Boys dress like American gangsters. This is crazy! Discipline in Rwandan schools is still lacking. Uniformity is a key in schools’ discipline. Pupils need to dress uniformly - socks, shoes, and uniform shirts/trousers/dresses. Some parents argue that they are too poor to buy their kids uniforms, yet afford much more expensive gangster attires. The shabby way students dress here cannot be the Rwandan way! What kind of adults shall we have tomorrow if kids dress like gangsters?”
Hey! Just because your behind is hanging out of your pants doesn’t mean you’re a gangsta!
And speaking of discipline, let’s not forget the genocide that happened in Rwanda 13 years ago. President Paul Kagame officiated at ceremonies marking this anniversary on July 4th, with an optimistic eye towards the peaceful reconstruction of the country. Not only are intensive efforts underway to solve the social problems of the country, but this tiny East African nation is actively seeking, and getting, economic investment from around the globe. The old notion of peace through prosperity (or hopeful prosperity) seems to have taken root here.
The interesting and jarring thing for me, as a foreigner, is the dichotomy between the people here and the very recent events of the past. The typical Rwandan, to me, is humble, quiet, well presented, honest, and reserved. How did a nation comprised of such individuals implode, bringing death to approximately 1 million people in 3 months? More astonishing is the ability of the populace to actively forgive and move forward - Tutsis and Hutus live side by side, hand in hand now. They work together, eat together, and run this country together. There are those who have killed, who, after admitting guilt, are free - they live in the same communities as the survivors of their victims. And there seems to be no outward animosity, mistrust, or division in the society.
Today, the author Immaculé Ilibagiza, who wrote the best-selling book ‘Left to Tell’ about the genocide, was at the hotel for an interview (I missed her). Her biographic tale spells out her own story of survival, faith, and healing here. It seems almost naive in its faith based explanation of the genocide, the ever present genocide (in the press at least), yet this is how she and many others survived.
Interestingly enough, this is one of those rare countries where America is ‘tops’ as someone told me today. The US is constructing a new, huge embassy here ... and is actively seeking to garner more support and create a base in this stable republic. In light of the not too distant embassy bombings in neighbors Kenya and Tanzania, I can only assume that the American presence allows our administration to monitor events in East Africa. I have been told that the current airport in Kigali will become a military base for the US, and that they will construct a new civil airport for the capital. Additionally, and all of you out there that scoff at my love of Paris, macarons, St. Germain, Citroens, and all things French - you will be happy to know that France is positively vilified in Rwanda. Their embassy is vide - empty - and in recent days the press here has run accounts of how the French government tacitly gave their permission for, or at minimum turned a blind eye to the slaughter here. The accounts, which first ran in the French papers, has been reproduced widely. Paradoxically, the Belgians, who formerly had a presence here and have offered their apologies for not doing more, still thrive here - building projects, aid workers, etc..
Kigali is, as it turns out, a large city after all - not huge, but bigger than I thought. There are neighborhoods that sprawl out from the city center, fanning out across the hills - although there is certainly poverty here, the city seems quite orderly (and is positively spotless!!!). Certainly in relation to a more developed country like India - which is a swirling mass of color, noise, teeming masses of people, livestock etc.. I was able to take a 3 hour tour with my Rwandan colleagues today, looking at architectural projects and construction sites. At the technical college we visited, I was the freak show - a stranger first of all, and a white stranger at that! Now, once again, believe me - these students seemed sophisticated in matters of dress, mannerisms, subject content, etc.. Maybe it’s just me - all those rings on my fingers, my hip huggin’ pants, etc.!!!
In addition to my ‘tour’ I had a good working day. I met up with my colleague Sifa in the morning - she was meeting with the head of an NGO which provides assistance to households that are headed by children (ie. orphans who are living on their own, caring for siblings in many cases). This particular non-governmental organization works with about 5,000 such individuals! He was kind enough to give us a lift to the architects’ office, where we basically hammered out more concepts for the village being built in the countryside. Tomorrow we will travel there, meeting with the governor of the province, who has given his support for the work. If only everyone could be as accommodating! Our group recently purchased a Land Cruiser for use here - it was bough in Dubai, where it is about half the cost of what it would be here, in this landlocked country. The car was shipped to Mombassa and driven across East Africa, finally entering Rwanda on Sunday. It has been in customs awaiting (ever-changing) paperwork before it is released - a guarantee by a bank that if the car is sold the tax will be paid on it (we are tax exempt). Even that status has to be re-ratified by an ‘act of congress’!
I love how Rwandans shake hands (which absolutely every male does as a sort of ‘hello’ greeting) ... they kind of slap their hand at you (almost a horizontal ‘high 5’) then grasp your hand firmly. It’s very hip. Others just kiss 3 times, kind of putting us 2-cheekers to shame! I get the handshake from everyone, including 3 of the hotel porters who spotted me in town the other day and are now so happy to see me in the lobby every time I go out.
Food was great today too - I had lunch with Sifa and Alain (aka Will Smith) at an Indian restaurant - very good indeed, nothing fancy. I was so exhausted this evening I went to the main ‘fancy’ restaurant at the hotel and had a huge, absolutely delicious meal. I inquired today as to why there are no fast food chains here, particularly in light of the aforementioned love of America! We’d love to get our hands on those trim Rwandans and ply them with a dose of our own saturated fat and corn syrup! I was told flat out that the one thing Rwandans do not import is food - everything is locally grown or produced, and is always fresh. Bravo!
A bientot,
Harley
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