es-CAPE

for a true clip of the insanity i am living with, please take a look at marlee:



omg.

i need a vacation from my vacation. when i planned a jaunt to south africa, i had visions of lolling about by the pool. palm fronds gently rustling in the breeze. long, leisurely breakfasts, and sundowners in the evening. a long bath. running on kloof street, or by the water's edge in sea point (i-phone secured to slowly growing bicep, blaring 70's music).

instead ... a frenzy of activity. weather consistently gorgeous and cloudless - 90 degrees with nary a bug in sight, no humidity. oh perfection, darn thou! so there is no rest for the weary. a brilliant breakfast organized poolside - me, with my greek yogurt and blossom honey, endless lattés; them, with eggs every which way, infinite amounts of toasted ciabatta, and a delectable and strange milk chocolate spread from bavaria. cheese like it's going out of style.

the kids have pilfered everything on our plates. i am not sure if i've gained or lost 10 pounds since arrival. it's pure hedonism. i do know i've had eleven kashi bars and forty eight glasses of wine. i cannot keep a piece of medium rare springbok on my plate. tonight (going backwards) we dine at jardine - incredible. only five items on the menu. andi (again) has a crispy south african fish. wine is flowing. jared and marlee both ingest springbok; my braised veal does not stand a chance (thank g-d andi is now a vegetarian). they eat my organic roll. i think i have a life saver in the car i can get too. they profess to not wanting dessert; when the cheese plate arrives, all manner of goat and cow are gone, as is quince paste and walnut sourdough wedges.

what DID we do this morning, between all this eating?!! oh yes, robben island, the prison where nelson mandela was held (amongst others). despite visiting as a tour group - the only way permissible - it is fascinating. an ex-prisoner guides us and gives us an intimate view of life during apartheid. amazing and fascinating. the power of human spirit and justice is inspiring, and we all feel both appalled and humbled by humanity.

we return, rather queasy from the boat road. today table mountain beckons - it is clear and stunning, and the cable car makes the 1100 meter ascent only under perfect conditions. we zip up to the lower end of this iconic rock formation, and find ourselves at the top of the rock quickly. the views are breathtaking, all the way to the cape of good hope. the beaches beckon from below. camps bay, glen beach, clifton1-4. there's devil's peak. the boys are terrified of falling off, but quickly turn to mountain goats. marlee is to be found at every ledge, not unlike wile e. coyote chasing the road runner. it is hot (90) but not really; it is the sun ... it is SEARING. broiling actually. we tuck into greek salad and health bars before descending, rushing like mad people back to our sanctuary to change for the beach and pick up our matkot paddles.

a black mercedes is in front of us, and there's henry waving frantically out of the back window - our friends = lifelong - who we had dinner with last night - just in front of us! so funny. we say hi, and promise to return in ten minutes to collect henry - he'll surf at the beach with us! we frantically change - we need to be back by seven for cocktails before heading out for dinner.

the beach is glorious - a combination of herzliya, rio de janeiro, and cannes. i go for a run. jane flops down. kids play paddle ball. henry is surfing.

this place is gorgeous! easy! laid back!

now, most places with incredibly in shape, good looking people and a spectacular coastline, great design scene, and natural beauty tend to be pretentious and self-conscious. not cape town. it's cool with a capital K, but not stuffy, or anti-pretentious (ie. low slung diesel jeans with converse sneakers). no, this place is all grown up and mature, and opens up it's arms to you, giving all it has to offer.

the 'mother city' of south africa. i get it.

h