14 December 2007

bonjour from bruxelles!


despite yesterday’s dire warnings of the hail, sleet, and snow (‘the sky is falling’) i make my way to europe. a day of controlled chaos - marlee with a fever home from school, no bags packed, on and off impending ice storms - and then the car service arrives at the house. a gigantic stretch limo at that, putting fifteen feet between me and the driver! we make it to jfk in somewhat record time, i check in at the near empty medallion lounge and pass through this elite security area unscathed, leaving me hours and hours to call at the delta crowne room (wine, wine, and more wine!).

a two hour delay and half a xanax later, we are airborne - i am blocked with eye shades and ear plugs, and resolutely occupy three seats, turning them into my own flat bed (eat your heart out, emirates!). so all in all, i manage to eek out a good night of sleep - landing in belgium one hour behind schedule. off i stroll, with trusty carry-on bag, checking in for tomorrow’s kigali flight rather quickly.

the hotel is in the airport, another quick lift up to my soundproofed room, a super hot shower, and i am on my way to antwerp to meet debbie’s sister karen. we find each other in this super hip port city - very funky - and head to the ‘bourse’ - the diamond exchange. there are more lubavitch jews here than at the lower east side! on bikes, walking, with kids - moving furtively about! we pass through security at the diamond center, and karen (keke) seems to know everyone! so funny, this shtetl! she takes me to the old-fashioned ‘jewish’ restaurant there, where the merchants have lunch, as a kick (think katz’s deli) ... it’s great - soup with knedlach, lox, egg salads, beets - all served up in that post ‘50’s glam that we associate with this type of eatery.

then we do the grand tour - the huge new yohji yamamoto shop, dries van noten, ann demeulemeester, and see fabulous home design shops, bookstores, and other modern purveyors of goods (chocolate!). we stop for a mid-afternoon drink, do some more shopping, and head back to her and phillipe’s home to meet their three gorgeous and sweet kids ...

debbie’s father comes to collect me and brings me to the lieber residence - a pearl of contemporary architecture with clean lines, glass, gardens, impeccable furniture, and other ‘moments’ which exhibit their exquisite taste and passion for quality design. this is the forum for a wonderful shabbat dinner, prepared by debbie’s mother, as debbie and dino and the kids arrive from bruxelles, along with debbie's brother and his family - all so warm, welcoming, and interesting! it is easy to understand how debbie is, knowing that she comes from such stock.

a truly special and unique night at home with the family lessens the distance to my own crew, back in new york - missing them but comforted by this evening’s festivities! we make our way back to bruxelles after a short car ride, and i bid farewell to my dear belgian friends ...

tomorrow, rwanda!

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