18 December 2007

come fly with me


from today's new times, editorial section:

if the kinyarwanda culture is legendary the world over for anything, it is for the intore dance, the one in which striking female dancers fully clad in traditional shawls, bare-chested men strapped across the chest and back, wearing ‘manes’ made from a special tree, doing flying bird-like movements, blissfully, and perhaps appropriately referred to as the traditional ballet.

women and men of all shapes and sizes, heights and classes suddenly move their bodies in a fluid-like pattern that has no particular consistency except for the amazing rhythmic correlation.

you will think all rwandese have been bred and trained in the art of performing this dance from childhood.

i was pleasantly surprised to learn that the outstretched arms and the extended skirts simulate the shape of the long curved horns of ‘ankole’ cattle and the flapping of elephant ears (from a new york times article of all places).

rwandans love their cattle, and for a man to tell the woman he fancies that she resembles a cow ''is very, very nice,'' says one leonia uwimana. in fact, when you curiously observe the men’s hands movement, they actually take from the movements of the cattle’s front limbs, doing a slow walk before turning awkwardly but beautifully in a different direction just like a bull that has suddenly been jerked away from its peaceful munching of juicy green pasture.

it will then gallop away, the pairs of hind and front legs leaving or landing on the ground concurrently.

this morning i had a funny encounter on my way to an eleven hour day at the office of the architects, here in kigali. as i was getting picked up at the lobby, i waited patiently for my lift. one of the two doormen (my friends!) side stepped up to me and whispered something to me. i didn't quite get him and told him so in french; he tried again in english, and again i was stumped by his low tone and (cultured east african) accent. finally, rather sheepishly but firmly, he pleaded: 'sir, you have left your fly unzipped!'. i flushed red and actually laughed hysterically, it was so ridiculously funny! a great way to start the day.

it is an interesting thing, volunteering one's time towards an altruistic effort in east africa. firstly, you quickly realize you are not alone. there are literally tons of people, agencies, and organizations working on the ground in rwanda. remember, the genocide here happened almost fourteen years ago. and although, as a westerner, it's easy to dismiss this and other 'developing' countries as impoverished, it's not quite a fully accurate account. it is true that this country has experienced incredible turmoil since that time - many survivors did leave, and other 'rwandans' by lineage came 'back' for the first time, making a new life in their recently liberated homeland.

but being here one is struck by the fact that as a westerner, you can move about freely and on your own, with security and safety - even at night. this is in stark contrast to the events that define rwanda today of course.

so now the west lends a helping hand, perhaps in part as a way of atoning for mistakes of the past. and although i may feel as if i am the only one coming to this part of the world, doing what i'm doing, i'm in fact not special or unique at all in this regard. there are so many people doing the same thing, it is incredible. building orphanages, schools, medical clinics. and you wonder about all of this - are they selfless? do they have an agenda? are they opportunistic? or are they here to inspire, to lead, to redefine 'success'.

it's all very humbling indeed, and at the same time very enriching on a personal level. perhaps i am 'getting back' more than i'm giving ...

h

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