devi garh

there is a perfect place on the indian subcontinent. a mere 45 minutes (blessedly) outside of udaipur stands devi garh, proudly rising betwixt the aravali hills.

towering over the adjacent farmland and the village of delwara, a jain temple town if there ever was one, this palace, yes, palace, is gloriously bathed in the deep light which makes this corner of rajasthan famous. firstly, it is important to know that walking, strolling, or browsing in indian cities does not afford serendipity; rather, it provides one with an up close and personal look at the nostrils of a giant cow, mega car fumes, and an ear splitting cacophony of horns and other assorted noises. forget sidewalks. relinquish your fantasies of teahouses and cafés. and abandon those notions of carting bolts of indian silks home to cover your walls, pillow, or other bourgeois articles that may grace your own palace.

all the more reason to head for the hills! ahhh, devi garh. a spectacular edifice, a remnant of the mogul empire, now waiting for you and only you. with twenty nine suites, it seems absurd that ALL of this could be for you. but it IS! and from the impeccable grounds, to the stunning views marrying the complex to the landscape, village, and farmland beyond, it is a rhapsody of incredible indian design. ingenuity is unveiled at every turn ... the lovely pool, the cool dining room, the sunset terrace, the contemporary inner courtyards all subtly beckon even the most jaded of travelers.

we were fortunate to share our journey with friends from london and paris - the experience did so touch us all ... even though we were introduced at this retreat, we founded transatlantic friendships which have endured. we were giddy with the thought of our good fortune, and none of us wanted to leave - ever.

the food - well, scrumptious (on our last evening, i was ceremoniously presented with the recipe for my favorite dessert, neatly typed on letterhead for me to experiment with at home upon my sad return to normal life!). the rooms - beyond stunning. the views, well we've covered that. how about the kids? our three terrors clamored between the piscine, the game room, and flying kites on the rooftops with the gracious staff in their flowing outfits. paired with our outings to the local temples, we had a great dose of all that this magical land can and should be.

devi garh, highly recommended to all!

h