03 November 2007

middle yeast


Shalom, y'all!

Well, 40 days at Sinai seems like nothing compared to an overnight flight to Tel Aviv!

Café Gitanes on Mott Street Wednesday morning did take the edge off - fresh citron pressé, a friande, and a café creme is not a bad way to start a journey (not even a bad as a grand finalé to an adventure). We left the heart of Nolita for ... the heart of ... Newark? Ah, New Jersey in the haze, a lovely site, although to be fair the view can't ever be that great on the way to the airport. Carryons in hand, we made our way to Terminal C for our Continent-hell flight to Tel Aviv - mercifully pre-checkin was done at home, so it was a simple stroll to the gate. Frozen yogurt, wine, pizza - we had all the airport classics, and boarded the full flight. Ten hours, twelve shrieking babies, six movies, and four Chardonnays later we were in the Middle East (or Middle Yeast, depending on how much pita one consumes).

Israel - at the shores of the Mediterranean, sunny and dry - a pleasure to be back! This time, no wait for bags, no jitters on Jane's part (carrying that Israeli passport - does she really think they'd want her in the army - they did see Private Benjamin after all!). Slightly bleary eyed, we made our way to Eldan to get the much maligned (and rightly so!) minivan - looking faux sporty in white - and drove to Jerusalem. The hills, the pines, the sun - truly gorgeous as ever, with the native white stone applied to all buildings - quite a city! Finally, past the King David, to 'our own' David Citadel Hotel - cool, modern, comfortable, we were greeted kindly and were offered gifts, dinner in honor of Sarah's birthday, wine, etc.. Nice to be spoiled, particularly amidst such refinement - off to the pool, 90 degree heat, basking and resting while gazing at the walls of the Old City! A chat with the young man putting towels on the lounges - Palestinian - brings (what everyone defines as my naive) hope for peace - person to person, everything can be solved!??! Let me dream -

Splashing about, fighting jet lag, and there were Sarah and Arnie, fresh off their Toronto flight - happy to see the grandchildren, loving Israel, looking forward to an adventure filled holiday. Is the mobile working? How about the wi-fi? Yes, all is in order, now we can get down to spirituality!!!

Jane and I left the kids to meet Gideon Hirscher, who works with Joint Distribution Committee here in Israel. We had a 3pm meeting, drove over to his offices near the Knesset Parliament, and were warmly greeted, again! We spent two hours talking about Rwanda (he's just back two days, after making provisions for the village we're working on there - educators, politicians, President Paul Kagame, etc.). We spent a lot of time discussing the feelings that I had when I was there - a gentle society that cannibalized itself thirteen years ago - and talked about different theories - how can they move forward so graciously? Murderers and victims living side by side? What lessons could Israelis learn from this, in their land surrounded by Arab neighbors (can we all learn a lesson from Rwanda's turnaround? is it real and lasting?). So many issues, so little time! Gideon is fascinating, dedicated, and passionate, a great person to talk to upon arriving - a former Californian who has been here ten years! He encouraged us to visit the Mehane Yehuda market in the morning, and to join him at his favorite hole-in-the-wall hummus joint Saturday morning (along with tea on the rooftop overlooking the Old City) if we don't make the journey to Masada (planned).

Back at the hotel, we hooked up with the kids, relaxed, showered, and got ready for dinner - we had reservations at a local restaurant but Sandra from the Citadel had arranged for us to dine in the hotel's restaurant 'on them'. We gladly did so, exploring in earnest the salads, sauces, wines and flavors of the country ... and barely made it back upstairs. Feeling a little jet lagged and full, everyone has just conked out, and I'm about to follow. Our friends the Sinels (from home) have just arrived, and we will have Shabbat dinner with them tomorrow evening, overlooking the city's ancient ramparts ... can't wait.

Wishing you all a great day from Jerusalem,

Harley

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