when i was growing up, i thought that my hometown of ottawa was exceedingly boring. looking like something out of the arctic tundra in winter, it's frozen landscape held little appeal for me. i dreamed of the partridge family bus rolling by, seeing me singing 'i think i love you' in the living room window, and stopping to invite me to join their touring troupe!
i've since grown up, a bit, and have come to see (in my infinite wisdom!) the not-so-hidden charms of the canadian capital. coming from the grittiness and hyper-activity of nyc, there is something almost dutch about riding a bike alongside the canal - as a way of actually getting around! and although we are neither athletic or sports oriented, we can appreciate all the saabs rolling by with thule racks secured tightly to the roof (or a canoe, or a pair of skis, etc.).
there are, incidentally, more urbane pursuits to be found in ottawa these days. the safdie-designed national gallery of canada (we attended the opening all those years ago!) mimics the nearby earthbound parliament buildings, but studies them in lacy glass and soaring pillars of refined concrete. nicolas hoare bookstore, just across the street, is as pleasant a shop as you are likely to find anyhwere on the planet - a great, thoughtful selection of books in a nicely lit space. zone lies a bit further south on sussex drive, beckoning shoppers with it's wide variety of design objects and home furnishings (all previously reasonable priced, prior to the decline of the american empire!). further afield, we find the french baker (le boulanger francais), our favorite spot for early lunch (actually, in the back annex at what is affectionately called benny's bistro) ... a glass of wine, a crisp and artfully arranged salad, some poached fish - all yummy and tasty. and it is customary, for our family at least, to top off any and all meals with a delicious gelato from pure on elgin street ... absolutely first rate, particularly smalt (smarties, the canadian 'm&m' mixed with chocolate), or after eight (an icy confection tasting like it's namesake chocolate square). in the evenings, we can be found at the retro bytowne cinema on rideau street - a riotous affair of an old theater, replete with mezzanine hovering in the huge space ... great movies supplemented by an even great calendar.
rows of embassy homes and other stately structures dot this most picturesque and un-self conscious of cities (in the true canadian spirit of not attracting attention to oneself, the author of this blog notwithstanding). ottawa is a glorious weekend escape which pleases most in the summer, starting with the renowned tulip festival - when millions of tulip bulbs spring to life with an array of colors and styles. the plants are donated annually by holland for canada's service to the netherlands' monarchy during the second world war, when they ensconced themselves in this land.
and despite being the second coldest capital city, after ulan bator (mongolia) - at least according to trivial pursuit - it warms me to be there!
i've since grown up, a bit, and have come to see (in my infinite wisdom!) the not-so-hidden charms of the canadian capital. coming from the grittiness and hyper-activity of nyc, there is something almost dutch about riding a bike alongside the canal - as a way of actually getting around! and although we are neither athletic or sports oriented, we can appreciate all the saabs rolling by with thule racks secured tightly to the roof (or a canoe, or a pair of skis, etc.).
there are, incidentally, more urbane pursuits to be found in ottawa these days. the safdie-designed national gallery of canada (we attended the opening all those years ago!) mimics the nearby earthbound parliament buildings, but studies them in lacy glass and soaring pillars of refined concrete. nicolas hoare bookstore, just across the street, is as pleasant a shop as you are likely to find anyhwere on the planet - a great, thoughtful selection of books in a nicely lit space. zone lies a bit further south on sussex drive, beckoning shoppers with it's wide variety of design objects and home furnishings (all previously reasonable priced, prior to the decline of the american empire!). further afield, we find the french baker (le boulanger francais), our favorite spot for early lunch (actually, in the back annex at what is affectionately called benny's bistro) ... a glass of wine, a crisp and artfully arranged salad, some poached fish - all yummy and tasty. and it is customary, for our family at least, to top off any and all meals with a delicious gelato from pure on elgin street ... absolutely first rate, particularly smalt (smarties, the canadian 'm&m' mixed with chocolate), or after eight (an icy confection tasting like it's namesake chocolate square). in the evenings, we can be found at the retro bytowne cinema on rideau street - a riotous affair of an old theater, replete with mezzanine hovering in the huge space ... great movies supplemented by an even great calendar.
rows of embassy homes and other stately structures dot this most picturesque and un-self conscious of cities (in the true canadian spirit of not attracting attention to oneself, the author of this blog notwithstanding). ottawa is a glorious weekend escape which pleases most in the summer, starting with the renowned tulip festival - when millions of tulip bulbs spring to life with an array of colors and styles. the plants are donated annually by holland for canada's service to the netherlands' monarchy during the second world war, when they ensconced themselves in this land.
and despite being the second coldest capital city, after ulan bator (mongolia) - at least according to trivial pursuit - it warms me to be there!
h
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